Growing Cabbage

Brassica sp. : Brassicaceae / the mustard or cabbage family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
  S S         S S      
      T T         T T  

(Best months for growing Cabbage in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Easy to grow. Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 41°F and 64°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 20 - 30 inches apart
  • Harvest in 11-15 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dwarf (bush) beans, beets, celery, cucumber, onions, marigold, nasturtium, rhubarb, aromatic herbs (sage, dill, chamomile, thyme)
  • Avoid growing close to: Climbing (pole) beans, tomato, peppers (chili, capsicum), eggplant (aubergine), strawberry, mustard, parsnip
  • Cabbage
  • Winter cabbage

There are many varieties of cabbage.

Those which stand winter weather usually have darker leaves and a stronger flavour, e.g. Savoy.

Red cabbage is grown in a similar way to green varieties.

In temperate climates ff you plant a selection of types you can have cabbage growing all year round.

Culinary hints - cooking and eating Cabbage

Young spring cabbage can be chopped and added to salad greens.
Steaming preserves the goodness and flavour of cabbage.
Can also be used in stir-fry.
Red cabbage chopped and cooked with brown sugar, red wine, onions, vinegar and stock is served with boiled bacon or pork.

Your comments and tips

26 Nov 23, (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Are there recommendations for sowing cabbage seeds that are tolerant of hot days (17 to 21 deg C and cooler nights 6 to 10 deg C as experienced in the central N.I. I do OK with shop bought punnets in early spring and mid to late autumn, but have no luck with sucessional planting in late spring through summer and early autumn.
14 Dec 23, (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Cabbage are a cool weather crop not a hot weather crop.
06 Jan 20, Ian (New Zealand - temperate climate)
I have used, for the first time, garden domes from the ware house. At last I don't have to spray for white butterfly. The domes let nothing in due to the mesh size. Bees can get in but find it hard to get out. So I now have four of these domes. Snails, birds, you name it. Nothing can get in.
04 Apr 19, danny (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
to keep pests off my cabbage or other vegs. I cut long strips off old spouting bend over to make cover and then cover with strawberry netting , works real good cheers Danny
02 May 19, Glen (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Hi Danny, can you explain in a bit more detail please? Cabbages and Broccoli I planted last year were a total disaster, I would love to find a good method to grow them Cheers Glen
03 May 19, Greeb thumb (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Look on the internet on ways to protect crops with netting.
08 Jan 18, JT (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
I've planted few veggies first time, but my cabbage are growing well with dark green leaves but unfortunately the leaves , most of the plants are eaten out , thought it must be snails or whiteflies etc and had checked leaves inside and out but can't find any culprit. I know am missing something here ?
28 Dec 16, tom green (New Zealand - temperate climate)
what is the best way to protect our cabbages from caterpillars that leave holes all over the leaves.we have tried derris dust but to no avail.
09 Jan 17, Alan (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Cheap environmental way is mix Baking soda and flour 50/50 and sprinkle on. They die within 48 hrs. If it rains you need to repeat but the solution is cheap enough and won't poison you?
02 Jan 17, Richard (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
The best way to protect from white butterfly caterpillar on brassicas is to cover with insect netting available form your hardware/garden store - I use a cloche system - very effective - no sprays no worries...
Showing 1 - 10 of 13 comments

Are you direct sowing (into the garden), or are you sowing indoors in trays? I'll give you the germination temperatures. Germination temperatures vary from plant to plant (even among say tomatoes - the various varieties have different germination temperatures). These are OPTIMAL germination temperatures-- so higher or lower can work, but germination will not be as consistent or Good in non-optimal temps. The germination temperature must be sustained (over several days or more) -- this is the plant's indicator (sustained warm temperature), that spring/summer is here -- and it is time to wake up and get growing. If the germination temperatures are not met, the seeds will remain dormant (most of them), waiting for their ideal growing conditions to occur. Remember - varieties make a difference so I'm giving you GENERAL temperatures. PEPPERS: Soil temperature needs to be at least 75-85 degrees F (24-27 c) for good germination. Peppers won’t germinate in cold soil– with the higher end temps germination may be in 5 days, or may take up to 20 days in the lower temps. Don’t overwater seeds or they may rot. peppers don't like to be overly wet. Your max germination temp is 95F (35c) for peppers. TOMATO : optimum germination temps are : 65-85F (24-30c) days to germinate varies a lot by variety ... so maybe 1- 2 weeks ? Max temp is 95f (35c). Tomato seeds have been know to germinate at temp as low as 40f (4c) -- but expect germination to take a month or more and your germination rate (% of seeds that germinate) will probably be very low. GREENS: way to varied to give an answer -- example: KALE has an optimum germination temp of 65F (18c) and range of 45°F - 85°F (7-30c), while SWISS CHARD's optimum germination is 80°F (27c) with a range of 40°F - 95°F (4-32c). Days to germination vary based on variety and temp. I generally recommend starting peppers and tomatoes indoors -- and with greens it depends on the green -- kale and chard are both tough, and both have a very wide temp range for germination so outdoors is fine. You also have to consider insects... larger plants have a better chance (in general) of survival if you experience pest problems. OF course a lot depends on how long your growing season is-- in a really long and hot growing season, starting tomato seeds outdoors is no problem, in a shorter cooler growing season the optimum germination temps may never be met (sustained) so starting indoors is pretty much a given.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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