Growing Broad Beans, also Fava bean

Vicia faba : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P     P P      

(Best months for growing Broad Beans in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 43°F and 75°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 6 - 10 inches apart
  • Harvest in 12-22 weeks. Pick frequently to encourage more pods.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dill, Potatoes

Your comments and tips

01 Mar 13, Doreen (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
When is the best time to grow Broad beans in Melbourne & what are their needs fertilizer wise for best results please?
21 Mar 13, Glenn (Australia - temperate climate)
Ive only just planted mine last week,I'm in melb too.I use mushroom mulch,they really then don't need alot of maintenance.
23 Mar 13, Andrew S (Australia - temperate climate)
Only thing I do is water them and put some support for them as the wind usually play havoc on them
07 Nov 12, Barb (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi Helen, Whether you get more broad beans will depend on the weather at this point. If it stays cool enough for the flowers to set to fruit then you may get more broad beans. However if the weather turns hot again, you may find the new flowers don't produce any fruit. We've just picked a lovely second crop on our beans - but now we're about to pull them up as it's now getting too hot, so we'll dig them in for the next crop
05 Nov 12, don andrew (Australia - temperate climate)
been growing broad beans many years lately i have been getting rust on leaves what is causing this and how can i prevent and treat my plants are 2 metres high with plenty of beans regards don
13 Jan 13, Terry Parker (Australia - temperate climate)
I plant mustard as a green manure and bio fumigant in beds that have rust etc. before next crop.
04 Nov 12, Helen (Australia - temperate climate)
Do the broad bean plants have a second lot of flowers/beans? I've had a reasonable harvest, just wondering if I should dig them in now or if they may produce more. Also need to work out whether I should be dedicating water to them, in this year of no rain.
29 Oct 12, Pam (Australia - temperate climate)
When do broad beans finish producing in Sydney, not quite sure when to start pulling them out. Also read it is good to dig the finish stalks into the ground. Is this a good idea. Thank you Pam
01 Nov 12, Paul (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi Pam, I recall Peter Cundell (from ABC Gardening show in Tassie) talking about eating his broad beans at Xmas. So I would suggest your beans should continue producing til end of November. I'm in Melb and mine continue to produce til at around November 30-ish. After that I will be cutting my bean stalks off at around soil level, leaving the roots in the ground (and the nitrogen in those roots still in the ground) and planting my next crop next to the old bean roots. The rest of the stalk goes on the compost. Hope this helps.
25 Sep 12, Joy (Australia - tropical climate)
I planted around june, have aboundant flowers, and many set fruit, but they are very small, & hard to get off the vine, I need to cut with knife!. should i have planted earlier? will further beans continue now it is getting so warm here, 24-29 deg C (Gold Coast) thanku, if you can help,
Showing 171 - 180 of 344 comments

Update June 01, 2021 - I have lots and lots of fava beans - and am continuing to get more and more. It looks like it will take until the end of the month to bring them all in. So these beans will take about 320 days from planting to full harvest. The haul was great and I am pleased with the overwintering process - very pleased. The beans that I planted in spring are still a ways off from producing beans -- the plants are also much smaller, and I doubt they will put forth as many beans as the favas that were overwintered. The overwintered favas are a mess, with the tarp damage and some favas rocketing up to what looks to be 9 feet, reaching for the sun (they are in a shady location) - but I am pleased. If I had only grown the spring planted favas, I might have given up on favas all together...... but overwintering seems to be the key here in Victoria, British Columbia for a really good crop of beans...... and I would even grow these in the winter for the greens -- they take a bit of getting use to (as did spinach for me when I was a child) -- but once you get use to the greens they are great. The greens taste like fava beans, and not like any other green. I have a few corrections from my first few posts: 1. when I said I lost 1/3 of the plants that were not covered during the really cold week --- it should have said I lost a third of each plant that was not tarped: so if the plant was 9 feet, I had to cut it back to 6feet. The number of plants actually lost was zero. While I only lost a portion of SOME of the tarped plants and when there was a loss it was about 10% of the plant. Also the plants not covered where in a much windier location (think one step and your off a 12 foot drop and in the Pacific Ocean--so lots of wind) -- the plants that were covered where a couple of meters away from the drop off, and there is noticeably less wind there. So whether or not the tarp really makes a difference here is still debatable; the difference may have been wind chill. 2. when I said I used the fava bean leaves as a garnish in my soups over the winter; it was really more akin to a side salad on top of my soup -- big handful of leaves -- sometime harvested based on a branch breaking due to wind. Stems were ground into pesto. Again, I'm very pleased with overwintering my favas; and expect that in the future I will only overwinter rather than spring plant. Winters here are RAINY with lows at about -2 (and extreme lows as cold as -6 last winter), it is also overcast here during the winter with very few sun breaks.... luckily I get a lot of reflection off the water when the sun does peak through. I grew 4 varieties of fava; including the extra early violets; all performed well; the violets are the prettiest if you take them to the dried pod stage; they all taste about the same.

- FaithCeleste Archer

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