Growing Broad Beans, also Fava bean

Vicia faba : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P     P P      

(Best months for growing Broad Beans in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 43°F and 75°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 6 - 10 inches apart
  • Harvest in 12-22 weeks. Pick frequently to encourage more pods.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dill, Potatoes

Your comments and tips

03 May 13, Craig (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm in Geelong and I plant them in March/April. For support, I plant in a block to assist with support; then I stake around the block and wrap the string around the perimeter of the stakes. They are very easy to grow and with minimal maintenance and fertiliser needs(seasol every 3 weeks). Pick out the flowering tips to direct the growing energy into the bean pods. My favourite variety is Aquadulce, which I find produces a hefty crop of beans.
16 Apr 13, Peter (Australia - temperate climate)
When do I must cut the top of the plant,(chip) I was told after the pods are about 7-10 cm, is that O/K thanks for your reply Peter
30 Apr 13, Sustainable Jill (Australia - temperate climate)
It depends on how many plants you have & how many beans you need. Some people recommend pinching out the growing tips when they are about 10-15cm long to encourage more stems, but you don't have to cut the top out of broad beans - I don't and I usually get plenty of beans. If broad beans are growing in a very windy spot, pinching out the tips of taller plants would stop them getting taller and less likely to be blown over...other people like to give them support...I do neither and my broad beans do fine (even in a windy spot).
22 Jul 13, (Australia - temperate climate)
And steam and eat the tops if you pinch them off - delicious!
15 Apr 13, Tina (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Do broad beans need any support? I've never grown them before.
20 Apr 13, JIM (Australia - temperate climate)
only if they are in a windy position if they are planted close together they will support each other
24 Apr 13, Steve (Australia - temperate climate)
I plant mine in double rows i.e. 2rows 10cm apart then 30cm away from the next double row, then stake the 4 corners of the row and run a string line about 30cm off the ground so they dont fall down this keeps them tidy and allows air movement between the rows.
13 Apr 13, Martin (Australia - temperate climate)
Are broad beans ok to grow with tomatoes.?
25 Apr 13, Steve (Australia - temperate climate)
I would say, yes if you look at the compatibility it shows potatoes which is in the same family as tomatoes
17 May 13, Chris (Australia - temperate climate)
You are generally growing broad beans and tomatoes in different seasons so it isn't an issue.
Showing 161 - 170 of 344 comments

Update June 01, 2021 - I have lots and lots of fava beans - and am continuing to get more and more. It looks like it will take until the end of the month to bring them all in. So these beans will take about 320 days from planting to full harvest. The haul was great and I am pleased with the overwintering process - very pleased. The beans that I planted in spring are still a ways off from producing beans -- the plants are also much smaller, and I doubt they will put forth as many beans as the favas that were overwintered. The overwintered favas are a mess, with the tarp damage and some favas rocketing up to what looks to be 9 feet, reaching for the sun (they are in a shady location) - but I am pleased. If I had only grown the spring planted favas, I might have given up on favas all together...... but overwintering seems to be the key here in Victoria, British Columbia for a really good crop of beans...... and I would even grow these in the winter for the greens -- they take a bit of getting use to (as did spinach for me when I was a child) -- but once you get use to the greens they are great. The greens taste like fava beans, and not like any other green. I have a few corrections from my first few posts: 1. when I said I lost 1/3 of the plants that were not covered during the really cold week --- it should have said I lost a third of each plant that was not tarped: so if the plant was 9 feet, I had to cut it back to 6feet. The number of plants actually lost was zero. While I only lost a portion of SOME of the tarped plants and when there was a loss it was about 10% of the plant. Also the plants not covered where in a much windier location (think one step and your off a 12 foot drop and in the Pacific Ocean--so lots of wind) -- the plants that were covered where a couple of meters away from the drop off, and there is noticeably less wind there. So whether or not the tarp really makes a difference here is still debatable; the difference may have been wind chill. 2. when I said I used the fava bean leaves as a garnish in my soups over the winter; it was really more akin to a side salad on top of my soup -- big handful of leaves -- sometime harvested based on a branch breaking due to wind. Stems were ground into pesto. Again, I'm very pleased with overwintering my favas; and expect that in the future I will only overwinter rather than spring plant. Winters here are RAINY with lows at about -2 (and extreme lows as cold as -6 last winter), it is also overcast here during the winter with very few sun breaks.... luckily I get a lot of reflection off the water when the sun does peak through. I grew 4 varieties of fava; including the extra early violets; all performed well; the violets are the prettiest if you take them to the dried pod stage; they all taste about the same.

- FaithCeleste Archer

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