Growing Broad Beans, also Fava bean

Vicia faba : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P     P P      

(Best months for growing Broad Beans in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 43°F and 75°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 6 - 10 inches apart
  • Harvest in 12-22 weeks. Pick frequently to encourage more pods.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dill, Potatoes

Your comments and tips

06 Feb 14, primrose (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
Can I cuk broad beans with samp???
26 Dec 13, Michael (Australia - temperate climate)
This year I've had a fairly good crop of broad beans (Fava beans) in my small back yard. I left them to grow wild with grass and weeds growing around because it is impossible to eradicate them, especially if the beans are often watered during dry spells, and weedicide is not an option. Each stem had at least from 6 to eight pods of about 6 inches long or smaller. Maybe it is a smaller type of broad beans but quite delicious. I have had no problems with pests, mainly the white butterflies who roster on the plants in the evenings, but I did notice extensive brown powdery colour on their leaves. Not intending to spray the plants, I hosed most of it off the leaves but the damage had already been done to the leaves, however, the plants seemed to cope will with what looks like brown fungal residue. I planted my broad beans early October and they have grown well. I planted another patch near if and now are 5 inches (15cm) high. Looks like I will get another crop on late February provided they get water and or rain. There has been no snail damage whatsoever, as I keep these pests in check with snail pellets around the perimeter of the crop. I have also noticed a number of Ladybugs on the broad beans leaves. I let them stay as these beautiful insects monitor the plants for suspected pest activities such as Aphids, etc.
08 Nov 13, Bob smith (Australia - temperate climate)
My beans have stopped growing.... Why?
02 Mar 14, Barb (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi Bob, Your beans are probably given up due to the heat. Broad beans grow better in the cooler weather in subtropical areas.
25 Oct 13, Carol (Australia - temperate climate)
I planted my broad beans around our fruit trees which are netted to keep the kangaroos and deer away from them and I have a great crop. Have now planted tomatoes in early October under the broad beans as I figured they would be protected from the elements and warm and they are doing well. Just read on this site not to dig the broadbeans out but cut them off and leave the roots there as they will be beneficial to the soil, I will use the rest of the plants in my compost. So thank you.
11 Oct 13, Debbie (Australia - temperate climate)
We have had a fantastic crop of broad beans (our first year growing them) and wondered if anyone knows about drying them. You often see recipes for using dried fava beans but we are not sure how to go about this. We do have a food dehydrator but there is no mention of broad beans in the instructions.
22 Oct 13, Andrew S (Australia - temperate climate)
G'day Debbie Best way we dried the beans was to either keep them in the pod on the plant and let them dry naturally as summer picked up , or place them on a drying rack in the shade on a hot day. Again we found the best ones were those that dried in pods. What you don't eat becomes next years crop. Going to try some in a plate drying this year.
28 Sep 13, Craig (Australia - temperate climate)
My broad beans were planted from seed the end of march. I have used seasol + seasol vegetable concentrate once a week lightly watered in a watering can mix then a deep water. The flowers started in July and the plants are 200cm high. the beans started beginning September and are now in full bloom. be patient and topping the plants to avoid over-growth and limiting new bottom shoots will help stimulate the beans. water morning and evening for late bloomers. When the bees start to move on your in for a bumper crop.
13 Sep 13, frank (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
My broad beans plants are being eaten from the upper stalk to middle of stalk including all flowers, leaves and baby pods. What is eating them???No parrots around yet !! or Possums ?? sending me crazy
04 Sep 13, Larsy (Australia - temperate climate)
My broad beans appear to have rust spots appearing on the leaves. I want to save seed from these plants. Will the rust affect the next generation if the seed is saved?
Showing 131 - 140 of 344 comments

Broad Beans/Fava Beans are very easy to grow - once you have all the facts. Here are some general guidelines, as the numbers vary depending on variety- in addition to wind verses shelter location etc. The kill temperature is -4c to -10c depending on the variety - the temperature needs to be sustained; that is, two seconds of -10c is not going to do anything... its all about when the freeze explodes the cells of the plant. I 've had mine in -6c on more than one occasion but the temp only stayed that low for about an hour- the high winds did the most damage. Those plants protected from the wind sustained little to no damage, those plants that where exposed lost about a third of their branches. Optimum growth temperature is somewhere between 18c and 26c The plants will grow from about 2c but go dormant below 2c, and also go dormant if it gets too hot. Too hot will generally reduce productivity and may comprise the ability of the plant to produce beans. So here is your temp line (I hope this turn out - it is meant to have temps above what happens at that temp) -10c -4c 0 2c 10c 15c 18c 20c 25c 30c ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ dead dormant growing OK growing well difficult to produce beans due to heat dead So what needs to happen to grow this plant 1. you need 80 or more days in the GROWING temperature zone to get to beans (though you may get a few here and there earlier). These days do not need to be continuous (in a row), Beans can go dormant, then grow, then go dormant etc. 2. you need SUN while growing 3. after 80 days in the growing temp range you should start getting beans: BUT favas need a lot of water during the flowering stage to produce beans... no water while flowering, no beans; low water, low bean production; lots of water while flowering healthy bean production You need to hit all 3 of these criteria to get beans... but don't stress, these beans are forgiving and will fight to hold on until conditions are good. Again, 80 days or more in temps above say 5c and below 28c, sun, lots of water while flowering. Now lets say you plant your fava beans with an intent to overwinter..... it could take 200 days of elapsed time to get your 80 days of growing temperature days. That's why you will see a days to harvest that ranges from about 80 days to about 240days. Spring sown favas will generally make it in 80 days, but if you overwinter there is no telling how long it will take to get beans BECAUSE you don't really know how many days are suitable growing days; if your winter is unseasonable warm you might get beans in 80 days, if your winter is unseasonable cold, you might not get beans until well into SPRING/SUMMER almost the equivalent of spring planting. Also note: that though favas fix their own nitrogen they still need the other two macro nutrients (phosphorus, and potassium) to grow as well as a variety of micro nutrients -- I give mine a dose of micronutrients at planting and manure while growing. Since favas are so hardy; I tend to grow mine in new beds; since usually nothing else will grow well in a new bed; I also use them in my WORST locations AND I grow mine over winter here, planting very late in summer, more like fall; as I want to bring in the last of the potatoes or tomatoes or whatever..... so they get the worst of everything (I'm shocked that they are growing in a bed that has not even fully composted and which I can barely dig in ), and still they do just fine. I like them for their edible green leaves during winter (flash fry them for use in a salad with croutons and other stuff - or wilt some in your soup.... like a side salad on top of your soup). These greens will keep you from getting stale stomach over winter if you are prone. The leaves taste like fava beans... so that is a bit strange, and the texture is tougher than most leafy greens; what can I say other than you'll get use to it. I believe in growing what grows well in my area, and adjusting my taste accordingly... or finding a recipe to hide the taste of things I'm not fond of but grow well. As far as pollination; I have got beans, not many, but some beans, in the middle of winter; no bees around then. I didn't hand pollinate or anything.... I am assuming wind did the job, but it could have been ants. I have noticed that when I STRETCH the growing season (overwinter), I get more stalks and greens with less beans; if I plant in ideal conditions and timeframes I get less greens and more beans. Real Estate in my garden is limited; so since these plants can handle the terrible conditions I grow them in winter.... leaving the ideal temps for my cherry tomatoes, potatoes and yams. Without a doubt BEANS are the big producers in my garden; whether they be runner beans, or fava beans; or which I have a half dozen varieties of each.

- Celeste Archer

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply


All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate App

Put GardenGrow in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use GardenGrow and subscribe to the free GardenGrow planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About GardenGrow | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.