Growing Broad Beans, also Fava bean

Vicia faba : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P     P P      

(Best months for growing Broad Beans in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 6°C and 24°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 15 - 25 cm apart
  • Harvest in 12-22 weeks. Pick frequently to encourage more pods.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dill, Potatoes
  • Broad bean flowering
  • Egyptian broad beans
  • Shelling broad beans
  • Young beans on plant
  • Young broad bean plant

It is a rigid, erect plant 0.5 - 1.7 m tall, with stout stems with a square cross-section. The leaves are 10 - 25 cm long, pinnate with 2 - 7 leaflets, and of a distinct glaucous grey-green color. Harvest 90 - 160 days depending on how cold the weather is.

In windy areas it is best to provide some support with posts and string, otherwise the plants will fall across each other. Pick the tops out once beans start setting to prevent blackfly.

Culinary hints - cooking and eating Broad Beans

The fresh beans are eaten steamed or boiled. As the beans mature it is better to remove their tough outer skins after cooking.
The leafy top shoots of the adult plants can be picked and steamed after flowering.
Small beans can be eaten whole in the pods.
Broad beans will freeze well. Remove from pods and blanch.

Your comments and tips

13 Aug 24, Tom Berghella (Australia - temperate climate)
I am having troubles with my broad beans. They all have curly leave and stopped growing. What can I do?
15 Aug 24, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate)
Curled leaves are usually a sign of distress. There are lots of things that could be distressing the plant -- so you need to provide more information, or figure out what is stressing the plant, then address the issue causing the stress. Is there any white powder (powdery mild) om the leaves? This might be a moisture issue. Or, are there aphids on your plant (little bugs sapping the nutrition from your broad beans) ? Could you be overwatering or underwatering ? Any chance of a nutritional deficiency (potassium, nitrogen, molybdenum, magnesium) ? Are there any climate issues (like wildfires create a lot of smog - that can stress plants). Is it perhaps too hot in your area: from the net: Like peas, favas grow best when temperatures are 60˚ to 65˚F (15c - 18c) and soil is moist. Temperatures much over 80˚F (27c) result in loss of quality, reduced production, and pest problems.
21 May 24, Phil Knight (Australia - temperate climate)
I have 10+ year old seed stock. Last season all 10 seeds failed to germinate. This season I am attempting to germinate inside until emerging in controlled environment. I soaked 24 hours and then placed seeds on damp paper towel in ziplock bag. I am concerned about mold appearing on seed. I cleaned off mold and sprayed with diluted hydrogen peroxide. Seeking advice. Thanks in advance
28 May 24, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Seeds are probably useless after 10 years. For beans germinate rate decreases after 3 years.
17 May 24, Peter (Australia - temperate climate)
Central Coast NSW. Broad Beans. I have had a pretty good strike rate with my Broad Beans, as they grew they were toppling over. I used Bamboo Stakes to hold them up. They are now about 3 ft tall at the end of my stakes and still growing vigourisly. I really dont want to use Tomato Stakes, What shall I do. Thanks in Advance
21 May 24, (Australia - temperate climate)
Sounds like you have a choice - use tomato stakes or just let them fall over.
25 May 24, Peter (Australia - temperate climate)
Yes, I think you are right anyhow, I have plenty of Tomato Stakes, will just get em out and go for it. Thanks for the Reply. Cheers. Pete.
13 Mar 24, Nicolas Panayotou (South Africa - Semi-arid climate)
were can I get seeds in South Africa in the North West province
21 Nov 23, Anthony (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
.I Grow mine in September. I Grow my seeds in toilet rolls with seedling mix. 10 day or less to germinate.. plant out before bees arrive about in September ,October.(will help pollinate the flowers ) Harvest Nov. Yummy I have heard you can grow them all summer in a shaded place . Doing it this year Waste of time growing them through winter, without the bees Growing season is Auckland
01 Jun 24, Richard Washer (New Zealand - temperate climate)
sewing in late autumn/early winter means that plants will be well developed in early spring ready to flower. results in a much earlier crop than if you sew in spring...best to sew some to grow over winter and some in early spring to get extended cropping - Richard Washer
Showing 1 - 10 of 344 comments

Broad Beans/Fava Beans are very easy to grow - once you have all the facts. Here are some general guidelines, as the numbers vary depending on variety- in addition to wind verses shelter location etc. The kill temperature is -4c to -10c depending on the variety - the temperature needs to be sustained; that is, two seconds of -10c is not going to do anything... its all about when the freeze explodes the cells of the plant. I 've had mine in -6c on more than one occasion but the temp only stayed that low for about an hour- the high winds did the most damage. Those plants protected from the wind sustained little to no damage, those plants that where exposed lost about a third of their branches. Optimum growth temperature is somewhere between 18c and 26c The plants will grow from about 2c but go dormant below 2c, and also go dormant if it gets too hot. Too hot will generally reduce productivity and may comprise the ability of the plant to produce beans. So here is your temp line (I hope this turn out - it is meant to have temps above what happens at that temp) -10c -4c 0 2c 10c 15c 18c 20c 25c 30c ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ dead dormant growing OK growing well difficult to produce beans due to heat dead So what needs to happen to grow this plant 1. you need 80 or more days in the GROWING temperature zone to get to beans (though you may get a few here and there earlier). These days do not need to be continuous (in a row), Beans can go dormant, then grow, then go dormant etc. 2. you need SUN while growing 3. after 80 days in the growing temp range you should start getting beans: BUT favas need a lot of water during the flowering stage to produce beans... no water while flowering, no beans; low water, low bean production; lots of water while flowering healthy bean production You need to hit all 3 of these criteria to get beans... but don't stress, these beans are forgiving and will fight to hold on until conditions are good. Again, 80 days or more in temps above say 5c and below 28c, sun, lots of water while flowering. Now lets say you plant your fava beans with an intent to overwinter..... it could take 200 days of elapsed time to get your 80 days of growing temperature days. That's why you will see a days to harvest that ranges from about 80 days to about 240days. Spring sown favas will generally make it in 80 days, but if you overwinter there is no telling how long it will take to get beans BECAUSE you don't really know how many days are suitable growing days; if your winter is unseasonable warm you might get beans in 80 days, if your winter is unseasonable cold, you might not get beans until well into SPRING/SUMMER almost the equivalent of spring planting. Also note: that though favas fix their own nitrogen they still need the other two macro nutrients (phosphorus, and potassium) to grow as well as a variety of micro nutrients -- I give mine a dose of micronutrients at planting and manure while growing. Since favas are so hardy; I tend to grow mine in new beds; since usually nothing else will grow well in a new bed; I also use them in my WORST locations AND I grow mine over winter here, planting very late in summer, more like fall; as I want to bring in the last of the potatoes or tomatoes or whatever..... so they get the worst of everything (I'm shocked that they are growing in a bed that has not even fully composted and which I can barely dig in ), and still they do just fine. I like them for their edible green leaves during winter (flash fry them for use in a salad with croutons and other stuff - or wilt some in your soup.... like a side salad on top of your soup). These greens will keep you from getting stale stomach over winter if you are prone. The leaves taste like fava beans... so that is a bit strange, and the texture is tougher than most leafy greens; what can I say other than you'll get use to it. I believe in growing what grows well in my area, and adjusting my taste accordingly... or finding a recipe to hide the taste of things I'm not fond of but grow well. As far as pollination; I have got beans, not many, but some beans, in the middle of winter; no bees around then. I didn't hand pollinate or anything.... I am assuming wind did the job, but it could have been ants. I have noticed that when I STRETCH the growing season (overwinter), I get more stalks and greens with less beans; if I plant in ideal conditions and timeframes I get less greens and more beans. Real Estate in my garden is limited; so since these plants can handle the terrible conditions I grow them in winter.... leaving the ideal temps for my cherry tomatoes, potatoes and yams. Without a doubt BEANS are the big producers in my garden; whether they be runner beans, or fava beans; or which I have a half dozen varieties of each.

- Celeste Archer

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