Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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10 Jan 17, Winnie (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
It's probably too hot at the moment that's why the leaves looks crimped and blossoms is not opening. Try to give your tomato plant some shade and water them twice a day. Once the temperature cools down a bit, you should see an improvement. My tomato plant is doing ok so far with the daytime temperature up to 34C but they are growing very slowly due to the heat.
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08 Jan 17, marcus peter rogers (Australia - temperate climate)
why have my tomato leaves crimpling up ? I cannot find any diseases .Thanks.
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16 Jan 17, John (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
There are many viruses that can affect tomatoes. 'Wilt' viruses can be identified by cutting one of the main stems on a long diagonal cut. If there are brown lines in the 'veins' it is an indicator of wilt virus. The other important consideration in tomato growing (including potatoes, capsicums, egg plant,) is not to plant them in in the same location for 3 years to reduce the risk of soil born diseases. Trust this helps.
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09 Jan 17, Joanne2167 (Australia - temperate climate)
Yes, mine are crimping too. They are also not producing much fruit and not very bushy at all. I am not very good at this and don't know what the problem is but these are the worst I have had.
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07 Jan 17, Bill (Australia - temperate climate)
I have a few Tomato plants one is 1.5 Mtr but top half of tomatoes are flowering facing upwards is this a problem. Thanks
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27 Dec 16, Tom (Australia - temperate climate)
Some of my tomato plants have curly leaves. What can I do?
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30 Dec 16, Phil (Australia - temperate climate)
You dont say much about your particular situaion, and I'm no expert. I had a similar issue with a potted Patio Prize but it was before I had whitefly/thrip. While I was watering it was hitting the leaves, and I think I overused tomato dust. The leaves not only curled, but they also went thick and felt waxy. Plant growth stunted and the small amount of fruit were really acidic tasting too (symptom of inefficient leaves). You should be able to rescue this plant by mulching and only watering the ground under the plant. Trim the worst couple of leaves/branches off every 5-7 days, continue as new growth takes hold. Google an appropriate fertiliser, i cant comment on that yet. New growth should take, but of course they then become a rich target for pests, enter my white fly problem as well. Gentle spray with confidor and rehash the sticky paper similar to the previous post. I'm not skilled enough to go chemical free yet.
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28 Dec 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Sorry to hear about your tomato leaves curling. This can sometimes occur with variable weather, hot, cold, windy, but is more likely to be a virus transmitted by whitefly. Tose pesky little insects that swarm on beans, tomatoes,etc. They lift off when disturbed and then land again fairly quickly. They can be controlled by smearing vaseline on yellow cardboard or plastic; they like the bright colour. Check your state department of agriculture website, they have more information. Sorry I haven't been a lot of help.
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11 Dec 16, Ayanda (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate)
Which season is right to plan tomatoes in the Eastern Cape,Centane.
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24 Dec 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
I am not familiar with the climatic zones of South Africa but imagine it would be similar to Australia. In frost-free areas tomatoes can be grown all year round. Otherwise plant them after the last frost in Spring. They are easily grown from seed and also strike readily from cuttings of side shoots placed in a small jar of water. They will sprout roots fairly quickly and then can be planted out like seedlings. protect from dryness and heat until they are established. Trust this helps.
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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