Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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30 Nov 16, Tia (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
We have a plague of small flying insects attacking tomato and tomato plants, capsicum etc. They pierce fruit multiple times all over, stunting maturity of produce. I've not seen them before. Of a night they cluster on my white picket fence, they are attracted to white. What are they? How do I control them naturally?
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30 Nov 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
If they are piercing the fruit they are sucking pests (bugs) so natural sprays such as Yates 'Natures Way' won't help. This spray works for chewing pests. If they like white and are clustering on the picket fence at night try 'greasing' the fence with petroleum jelly (vaseline). if they are not too large they will stick to it. You could also fix some white plastic, ice cream containers or lids to a stake and grease that instead. Trust this helps.
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20 Nov 16, Wayne (Australia - temperate climate)
I have two different varieties of tomato growing and both are very bitter. What could be causing this? I have grown several crops over the years & this is the first time this has happened
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18 Nov 16, Ross (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, i have some tomato plants which are doing really well, but the white moths and small insects are attacking them, can you tell me how to stop these pests please
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18 Nov 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Hello Ross, The white moths will most likely be White Fly which rise in a cloud when disturbed and lnd again fairly soon. A piece of bright yellow plastic or card smeared with petroleum jelly will sort them out. They are attracted to the bright colour and will stick to the greasy surface. it depends on what the small insects are, what to do. If they are a very small fly that can fly forwards, backwards and sideways they will be hover flies. They are beneficial and will be feeding on the white fly or aphids so don't try and get rid of them! If the insects or grubs are chewing the leaves or fruit you could use Yates 'Natures Way'. This is a bacterial spray and is harmless to anything but chewing pests. It is organically approved and is 'safe'. Trust this helps
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26 Oct 16, Felicity (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Would love your Tips for growing tomatoes in the cooler climate of the Strathbogie ranges in Victoria. Approx 300 m above sea level We are wondering if we need plastic "igloos" to protect ? And any varieties that would be better suited to this climate Thanks !
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18 Nov 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
You could try starting off seeds inside in the base of an egg carton in September. That will give you a head start. The soil temperature needs to be 15-17 degrees for them to thrive, usually end of October or early November. Alternatively plant seed of short season varieties like Stupice (60 days). Most varieties that originated in the northern states of America, Canada or Europe will be suitable for a short growing season. Planting them in a sheltered position on a North, North-East or East situation will also help.
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15 Oct 16, Di (Australia - temperate climate)
I always choose small, sweet Salerno cherry tomatoes at the shops and would like to grow that variety at home but have been unable to find it anywhere. Do you know if they are available in South Australia? Cheers, Di
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21 Oct 16, Margaret (Australia - temperate climate)
Di, you can save some seed from one or two of the better tomatoes that you buy and grow from them?
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24 Oct 16, Dee (Australia - arid climate)
Hi Di. If you try and grow tomatoes from the fruit, just squeeze the whole tomato into the soil and cover. I believe that tomatoes have an enzyme around the seed that stops it from sprouting and growing the whole tomatoe it will rot under the soil and sprout.
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Showing 371 - 380 of 809 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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