Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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27 Mar 17, Meredith (Australia - temperate climate)
Thank you for this information. I fear I have spread it without knowing although I am not a smoker. What is the best way to discard the diseased plants now. I have been composting and I guess this helps to spread the virus. Meredith
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16 Mar 17, Joan Fox (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Would tomato plant grow and produce fruit if planted in a pot on a sheltered veranda during winter months?. Would get all morning sun.
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17 Mar 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Tomatoes need heat to grow and produce. If you can where the soil in the container will stay warm enough you could certainly give it a try. You would need maximum sunshine and protection from frosts and cold winds. I have heard of people putting pots against a brick wall so that some of the heat absorbed by the wall can help overnight. If you have a sunny spot near a window inside what about planting them inside in a pot or a hanging basket. 'Tumbler' is a good hanging basket variety that bears very well and looks good. Let us know on this site how you get on.
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18 Mar 17, Robyn (New Zealand - temperate climate)
I agree that Tumbler is a great "cherry type" tomato, and a great performer. I grow both yellow and red variety. Plant two plants in each large hanging basket, feed well and you should get toms from Oct till April. I hang mine off the picnic table on my deck, we pick our own for meals, easy!
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12 Feb 17, Joe (Australia - temperate climate)
I planted a crop 6 plants of Roma in virgin beds this year and did quite well, how ever in years gone by have had poor results in beds previously cropped with tomatoes, why is this so?
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13 Feb 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
The tomatoes would have done well because of your 'virgin' beds. Vegetables have varying nutrient requirements, with leaf crops able to take lots of nitrogen from recently manured soil. If you follow a leaf crop with a fruit crop, such as tomatoes, beans or pumpkins (or plants from within that family), then complete the cycle with a root crop such as carrots you will end up with a fairly good balance. After the root crop add more manure or compost and start the cycle again. The only extra thing I will say is - don't plant tomatoes, capsicums, potatoes or egg plant in the same spot next year as this will encourage soil borne diseases that they are susceptible to. Trust this helps.
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13 Jan 17, Penny (Australia - temperate climate)
Is it too late to plant a Roma tomato plant now? Ta
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16 Jan 17, John Mauger (Australia - temperate climate)
Roma tomatoes need about two and a half months from planting to harvest, so if you planted some now you would have them ready by late March. You should scrape in before any frosts. If they are still bearing and frosts are imminent pull the whole plant out (including the roots) and hang it up by in a sheltered place where the remaining tomatoes will continue to ripen. The worst case scenario would be to make green tomato pickles at the end of the season. Trust this helps.
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11 Jan 17, Sandra (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, I got about 5 varieties of tomatoes growing and they are all doing great and tasting fantastic! And totally organic as well.....my only problem is that I am sharing my delicious fruit with these big fat green caterpillars .....so I end up throwing a lot away.......would you have an idea what I could do to get rid of them? A non-chemical solution if possible.... Thank you :)
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16 Jan 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
I don't like to recommend particular brands but Yates Natures Way is an organically safe control for your caterpillars. It is harmless to pets, chooks, humans, etc. only affecting chewing pests. The caterpillar could subsequently be eaten by a bird with zero side effects. Trust this helps.
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Showing 351 - 360 of 809 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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