Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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03 Feb 11, Sam (Australia - temperate climate)
I had the same issue issue last year and a friend suggested hanging yellow and red christmas baubles on the vines before it starts fruiting. Birds will go for these first without success and, hopefully, leave your ripening tomatos alone. That's my plan for this year, anyway.
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04 Feb 11, Chris (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I'll try that on my plum trees next year!
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14 Jan 11, kate (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I am no expert, but I read somewhere that you can put banana skin under the mulch or in the soil and the potassium helps with flower production. I tried this and also made a tea of banana skins which I apply (diluted) weekly. It seems to work! There are lots of flowers and fruit even though we have had a very slow start to summer here.
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08 Jan 11, Lou (Australia - temperate climate)
Someone told me they know of a tomato plant that's been growing fruit for 10 years.......
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08 Jan 11, dino (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi my tomatoes are growing OK , but are not showing any sign on flowers, I have had them in for weeks now.
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06 Jan 11, (Australia - temperate climate)
Mine are the same! I grow Sweet Bites and Tomatoberries in large pots, but they end up dying from the bottom up with leaves on the new growth. My soil is rich and I regularly use worm castings/juice and potash-rich fertilizer. Kellie, Sydney
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04 Jan 11, (Australia - temperate climate)
My tomato plants always die from the bottom up. The leaves yellow then brown then drop off. Plants develop well, and I keep it in check by removing diseased leaves, but by the time tomatoes are ripening the plant starts to die. If I don't pull the plant while mist fruit are green the fruit go bad. Does anyone know what thus is? How can I stop it? Sarah, Perth, temperate
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05 Jan 11, Adrian Castellari (Australia - temperate climate)
Hello Sarah. I'm no expert, but, how is your soil. If it is nice and rich, you shouldn't have any problems. Maybe you need to replace the soil, then build it up with compost etc. My plants were like that, so I replaced everything for this growing season. My 16 tomato plants are now well over 6ft. tall and 'loaded'.
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30 Dec 10, Mick and Paula (Australia - temperate climate)
I have tomatoes at 1.5 metres and the fruit is large on all plants. The problem is the plants look like they are starting to die off before the fruit ripens. We have chook so i have placed the waste on the ground around the plants ( the waste is a week old before it goes on). Suggestions please.
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01 Dec 10, Colleen (Australia - temperate climate)
we've had so much rain, the soil in places is boggy but my tomatoes are in a new slightly raised bed. I've noticed blossom end rot on many of the plants. I guess the calcium has been leached out of the soil with all this rain, should I add some lime?
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Of course there are lots of factors (soil watering etc.), I\ll point out a few you may have issues with. I'm a little concerned about your night time temperatures harming the growth or steady growth of your tomatoes -- in addition Blossom drop will occur in if daytime temperatures are warm but night temps drop below 55 F. (13 C.) -- a condition that can easily occur in a greenhouse in winter. When you look at days to harvest for tomatoes -- they are assuming spring/summer growing -- which means the NUMBER of daylight hours is HIGHER. Your area may drop from 12 hours of daylight in summer to 9 in winter.... that's a big difference. Additionally the INTENSITY of the sun is not as great in winter as it is in summer. This means the plant is not collecting as much light. I would GUESTIMATE you need to at double the DAYS to harvest to account for your growing conditions. If you decide to go forward I would opt for varieties that tend to grow well in colder climates that NATURALLY have less intense sun and shorter days (or install lighting if you don't have it and perhaps some heat). REMEMBER your soil temp needs to stay at about 16c -- so if your pots are on the ground or if you are planting directly into the soil, the cold may creep into the soil from below. There are specific tomato varietals bred for cold hardiness which will tolerate conditions at or below 55 degrees F. (13 C.). The best choices for colder climates are short to mid-season tomatoes. These tomatoes set fruit not only in cooler temps, but also reach maturity in the shortest number of days; around 52-70 days. I would look to some indeterminate cherry or plum size tomatoes (so small tomatoes) with very low days to harvest. I have never grow this tomato -- but -- Originally developed for cool rainy nights, Quedlinburger Frühe Liebe (or as I like to say, QFL) is a German heirloom tomato variety that’s ready for harvest in just 40 days after transplanting (!!!) and keeps producing until killed by a freeze. This makes it quite an amazing all-season plant and a real keeper in the garden if you’re prone to cold snaps. QFL is sweet and flavorful with small, juicy red fruits ==> tomatofest (internet site in the USA) says : Old German potato-leaf variety means "Early love of Qued Linburg". Small spindly vines produce 1 1/2-inch, round, 4-lobed fruit in clusters of 4. These tomatoes have great flavor with good acidity. Developed for cool rainy nights. Prolific even during colder summers. **** you really need to review the conditions in your green house -- day and night time temps, hours of sunlight --and you need to choose your variety wisely -- and even then, this might be difficult -- a lot depends on your greenhouse.

- faith Celeste Archer

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