Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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15 Apr 12, Rene (Australia - tropical climate)
Have just plante patio romas in pots on advice from a sales assistant. I am wondering if I have in fact planted too early ? Due to our climate i was assured they would be ok. As a novice some good advice would be truly appreciated.
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05 Apr 12, Ellie (Australia - temperate climate)
slather vaseline around the garden stakes. Ditto trunks where critters climb up. replenish after each rain or 3or 4 waterings. E.
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03 Apr 12, konsta (USA - Zone 10a climate)
hi i have a tomatto that stem is spliting and leaves have burn spots any advise?
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11 Mar 12, Trudy (Australia - temperate climate)
I am growing tomatoes for the first time in a couple of years and thought I would mulch with old hay to help control weeds and conserve moisture (a jinx). I was short a couple of stakes so let some Roma grow on the mulch but as they were ripening I noticed slaters chewing the bottom side. Went to pick Grosse Lisse yesterday (staked) and a slater pocked his head out of a hole about a foot off the ground. Tommy Toes are fine. Are the slaters the problem or just taking advantage? I only use dipel but none this season. Trudy
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30 Jan 12, stella (Australia - temperate climate)
i amm growing gross lisse variety of tomatoes they are pretty huge on the vines but none of them are ripening as of yet ..what should i do theplants are a fairly average size with los of leaves and flowers and unripe fruits..
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30 Jan 12, Reg Parker (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Stella, Your fruit will ripen, however I strongly suggest that you rid your plants of ALL LEAVES except the for the top (3), you will notice that you have a flowering stem, then a leaf stem then a flowering, get rid of all non flowering stems, you will do yourself and your vines a great favour....leaves only pull the nutrients away from the fruit, block sunlight & air circulation , create disease and attract pests. Also use a liquid fertilizer 2-3 times a week, you will have sweeter, juicier fruit and more than you can possibly even give away. DON'T BE AFRAID TO STRIP THOSE LEAVES> Reg
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13 Feb 12, (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks very much for your advice I have been harvesting juicy red tomatoes now!!!
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16 Jan 12, Irene (Australia - temperate climate)
Planted Apollo Tomatoes Improved: They were fruiting beautifully until today I saw what looks like teeny blemishes, tiny dints like pin pricks coming on them...they are still unripe and more are coming what can I do to save the crop or is this a normal part of the process. By the way we have had a lot of rain but the drainage is fine. Thank you
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15 Sep 13, Jessica Vivien (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Irene, I'm in Perth, I had this problem a couple of years ago, and the culprits were green shield bugs. I could not find a suitable treatment apart from picking these off by hand. They wrecked most of my tomatoes except the cherries and a Roma. Part of the problem was that I was growing them in a spot well sheltered from wind, and too close together I think, which provided perfect conditions for the beetles. I have now build an enclosed vegetable garden covered with quarter inch netting, which keeps out the adult beetles so they cannot lay eggs around this area, and the babies would have to walk a very long way to get in. My enclosed garden also keeps out cabbage butterfly, parrots, possums, rats, bandicoots, large snails. I still have to contend with slugs and slaters though.
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21 Jan 12, Bec (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Sounds like fruit fly. Try hanging some fruit fly traps around and yellow sticky traps. Had this problem last year but since hanging up a eco-lure no problems this season.
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Of course there are lots of factors (soil watering etc.), I\ll point out a few you may have issues with. I'm a little concerned about your night time temperatures harming the growth or steady growth of your tomatoes -- in addition Blossom drop will occur in if daytime temperatures are warm but night temps drop below 55 F. (13 C.) -- a condition that can easily occur in a greenhouse in winter. When you look at days to harvest for tomatoes -- they are assuming spring/summer growing -- which means the NUMBER of daylight hours is HIGHER. Your area may drop from 12 hours of daylight in summer to 9 in winter.... that's a big difference. Additionally the INTENSITY of the sun is not as great in winter as it is in summer. This means the plant is not collecting as much light. I would GUESTIMATE you need to at double the DAYS to harvest to account for your growing conditions. If you decide to go forward I would opt for varieties that tend to grow well in colder climates that NATURALLY have less intense sun and shorter days (or install lighting if you don't have it and perhaps some heat). REMEMBER your soil temp needs to stay at about 16c -- so if your pots are on the ground or if you are planting directly into the soil, the cold may creep into the soil from below. There are specific tomato varietals bred for cold hardiness which will tolerate conditions at or below 55 degrees F. (13 C.). The best choices for colder climates are short to mid-season tomatoes. These tomatoes set fruit not only in cooler temps, but also reach maturity in the shortest number of days; around 52-70 days. I would look to some indeterminate cherry or plum size tomatoes (so small tomatoes) with very low days to harvest. I have never grow this tomato -- but -- Originally developed for cool rainy nights, Quedlinburger Frühe Liebe (or as I like to say, QFL) is a German heirloom tomato variety that’s ready for harvest in just 40 days after transplanting (!!!) and keeps producing until killed by a freeze. This makes it quite an amazing all-season plant and a real keeper in the garden if you’re prone to cold snaps. QFL is sweet and flavorful with small, juicy red fruits ==> tomatofest (internet site in the USA) says : Old German potato-leaf variety means "Early love of Qued Linburg". Small spindly vines produce 1 1/2-inch, round, 4-lobed fruit in clusters of 4. These tomatoes have great flavor with good acidity. Developed for cool rainy nights. Prolific even during colder summers. **** you really need to review the conditions in your green house -- day and night time temps, hours of sunlight --and you need to choose your variety wisely -- and even then, this might be difficult -- a lot depends on your greenhouse.

- faith Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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