Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

28 Jan 16, Jules (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi there......nope...the king parrots in my area have devoured all of our yellow grape tomatoes...................love any type of cherry tomato and feed on the green unripe ones as well :(
09 Dec 15, Bert (Australia - temperate climate)
I have lots of native birds and lots of starlings (they seem to die suddenly) None of the birds bother my tomatoes, not even my chooks which hate being dive bombed by the wattle birds.
25 Dec 15, Prometheus (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Thanks for your reply Bert. Glad that birds are not an issue for you - hopefully will be the same for me once all the tomatoes ripen. I have heard a lot about bird problems from gardeners in the USA but it sounds like it may be specific to birds from North America (especially Mockingbirds).
30 Dec 15, Ernie (Australia - temperate climate)
I don't think the bird problem is just from specific North American, I live in Wollongong, and my tomatoes get eaten every year fro the time they are small green until they ripen by mostly King parrots, actually have a video of one eating my cherry tomatoes when they were still green. Another bird I have a problem with is green and resembles a minor bird, but bigger actually eats the plants and leaves which are supposed to be poisonous. Go figure.
04 Dec 15, vincent (Australia - temperate climate)
I have Tomato growing well in my garden but fruit is soft and pick,can any tell me whta i am doing wrong. Thanks Vincent
12 Nov 15, Glenn (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Kierian, I think the most likely reason they aren't doing too well is that you have planted them in March or thereabouts and in your type of climate, tomato season is finished. A general rule of thumb for planting in temperate climate is to wait until after Melbourne Cup Day, when hopefully all the frosts are gone. so now would well and truly be the right time to have another go, also don't over prune them you really only need to pinch the laterals and maybe just not so much fertiliser, a little bit of potash occasionally will improve your fruit and only water at the base of the plant ,not overhead. Hope this helps. Kind regards, Glenn
25 Oct 15, Margaret Winton (Australia - tropical climate)
could your please name varieties of tomatoes' that will grow and bear in tropical Queensland summer
10 Sep 15, Prometheus (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I am also from the Central Highlands, though this will be my first year trying tomatoes here. A lady with many years of gardening experience recently told me that tomatoes shouldn't be planted out here until Melbourne Cup day (5th November). It's simply too cold before then, especially overnight, and late frosts are still possible in October. For best results you should raise seedlings beside a sunny window or in a greenhouse in late September - early October, to plant out in early November. Or simply buy seedlings from a nursery - this is a much easier option but the number of varieties they sell is limited. I have researched on cold-tolerant varieties for this season and here are three that I am trying this year: Siberian, Stupice, and Swift. You may want to try to look for these varieties as they will probably be better adapted for this climate. Generally, any variety from Northern Europe is probably better to plant than typical Australian varieties, which are bred for hotter climates. Finally, make sure you are feeding them correctly. A high Nitrogen fertiliser is necessary early on, but once it puts on flowers you want to only feed it with one high in Phosphorus and Potassium. There are very few of these fertilisers that seem to be available at the big box stores (many have way too much N) but something like liquid potash or a 'flowers / bloom' labelled fertiliser should work. Make sure to include some organic fertiliser or organic compost when planting out your seeds / seedlings as well, so that your soil is not deficient in trace elements. I hope at least some of this advice helps and that you end up with a bumper crop this year. Tomatoes are probably harder to grow here than elsewhere but I have also been told there are less pest problems than up towards the tropics. Best of luck!
04 Sep 15, max (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in Ballarat ( or just a bit south) I can grow everything in the vegie line except tomatos.I use the no dig garden method and have tried different methods to grow them with mediocre results. I would be happy with some expert advise on what are the best varieties and methods please.
11 Nov 15, Glenn (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Max, I also live in Ballarat, grow my own tomato plants and have lots of success, have number of varieties, Grosse Lisse, German Johnson, Beefsteak, Black Krim, Black Cherry and more would be happy to give you some plants and help. Kind regards, Glenn
Showing 411 - 420 of 799 comments

Of course there are lots of factors (soil watering etc.), I\ll point out a few you may have issues with. I'm a little concerned about your night time temperatures harming the growth or steady growth of your tomatoes -- in addition Blossom drop will occur in if daytime temperatures are warm but night temps drop below 55 F. (13 C.) -- a condition that can easily occur in a greenhouse in winter. When you look at days to harvest for tomatoes -- they are assuming spring/summer growing -- which means the NUMBER of daylight hours is HIGHER. Your area may drop from 12 hours of daylight in summer to 9 in winter.... that's a big difference. Additionally the INTENSITY of the sun is not as great in winter as it is in summer. This means the plant is not collecting as much light. I would GUESTIMATE you need to at double the DAYS to harvest to account for your growing conditions. If you decide to go forward I would opt for varieties that tend to grow well in colder climates that NATURALLY have less intense sun and shorter days (or install lighting if you don't have it and perhaps some heat). REMEMBER your soil temp needs to stay at about 16c -- so if your pots are on the ground or if you are planting directly into the soil, the cold may creep into the soil from below. There are specific tomato varietals bred for cold hardiness which will tolerate conditions at or below 55 degrees F. (13 C.). The best choices for colder climates are short to mid-season tomatoes. These tomatoes set fruit not only in cooler temps, but also reach maturity in the shortest number of days; around 52-70 days. I would look to some indeterminate cherry or plum size tomatoes (so small tomatoes) with very low days to harvest. I have never grow this tomato -- but -- Originally developed for cool rainy nights, Quedlinburger Frühe Liebe (or as I like to say, QFL) is a German heirloom tomato variety that’s ready for harvest in just 40 days after transplanting (!!!) and keeps producing until killed by a freeze. This makes it quite an amazing all-season plant and a real keeper in the garden if you’re prone to cold snaps. QFL is sweet and flavorful with small, juicy red fruits ==> tomatofest (internet site in the USA) says : Old German potato-leaf variety means "Early love of Qued Linburg". Small spindly vines produce 1 1/2-inch, round, 4-lobed fruit in clusters of 4. These tomatoes have great flavor with good acidity. Developed for cool rainy nights. Prolific even during colder summers. **** you really need to review the conditions in your green house -- day and night time temps, hours of sunlight --and you need to choose your variety wisely -- and even then, this might be difficult -- a lot depends on your greenhouse.

- faith Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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