Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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24 Dec 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
I am not familiar with the climatic zones of South Africa but imagine it would be similar to Australia. In frost-free areas tomatoes can be grown all year round. Otherwise plant them after the last frost in Spring. They are easily grown from seed and also strike readily from cuttings of side shoots placed in a small jar of water. They will sprout roots fairly quickly and then can be planted out like seedlings. protect from dryness and heat until they are established. Trust this helps.
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30 Nov 16, Tia (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
We have a plague of small flying insects attacking tomato and tomato plants, capsicum etc. They pierce fruit multiple times all over, stunting maturity of produce. I've not seen them before. Of a night they cluster on my white picket fence, they are attracted to white. What are they? How do I control them naturally?
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30 Nov 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
If they are piercing the fruit they are sucking pests (bugs) so natural sprays such as Yates 'Natures Way' won't help. This spray works for chewing pests. If they like white and are clustering on the picket fence at night try 'greasing' the fence with petroleum jelly (vaseline). if they are not too large they will stick to it. You could also fix some white plastic, ice cream containers or lids to a stake and grease that instead. Trust this helps.
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20 Nov 16, Wayne (Australia - temperate climate)
I have two different varieties of tomato growing and both are very bitter. What could be causing this? I have grown several crops over the years & this is the first time this has happened
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18 Nov 16, Ross (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, i have some tomato plants which are doing really well, but the white moths and small insects are attacking them, can you tell me how to stop these pests please
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18 Nov 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Hello Ross, The white moths will most likely be White Fly which rise in a cloud when disturbed and lnd again fairly soon. A piece of bright yellow plastic or card smeared with petroleum jelly will sort them out. They are attracted to the bright colour and will stick to the greasy surface. it depends on what the small insects are, what to do. If they are a very small fly that can fly forwards, backwards and sideways they will be hover flies. They are beneficial and will be feeding on the white fly or aphids so don't try and get rid of them! If the insects or grubs are chewing the leaves or fruit you could use Yates 'Natures Way'. This is a bacterial spray and is harmless to anything but chewing pests. It is organically approved and is 'safe'. Trust this helps
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26 Oct 16, Felicity (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Would love your Tips for growing tomatoes in the cooler climate of the Strathbogie ranges in Victoria. Approx 300 m above sea level We are wondering if we need plastic "igloos" to protect ? And any varieties that would be better suited to this climate Thanks !
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18 Nov 16, John (Australia - temperate climate)
You could try starting off seeds inside in the base of an egg carton in September. That will give you a head start. The soil temperature needs to be 15-17 degrees for them to thrive, usually end of October or early November. Alternatively plant seed of short season varieties like Stupice (60 days). Most varieties that originated in the northern states of America, Canada or Europe will be suitable for a short growing season. Planting them in a sheltered position on a North, North-East or East situation will also help.
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15 Oct 16, Di (Australia - temperate climate)
I always choose small, sweet Salerno cherry tomatoes at the shops and would like to grow that variety at home but have been unable to find it anywhere. Do you know if they are available in South Australia? Cheers, Di
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21 Oct 16, Margaret (Australia - temperate climate)
Di, you can save some seed from one or two of the better tomatoes that you buy and grow from them?
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Of course there are lots of factors (soil watering etc.), I\ll point out a few you may have issues with. I'm a little concerned about your night time temperatures harming the growth or steady growth of your tomatoes -- in addition Blossom drop will occur in if daytime temperatures are warm but night temps drop below 55 F. (13 C.) -- a condition that can easily occur in a greenhouse in winter. When you look at days to harvest for tomatoes -- they are assuming spring/summer growing -- which means the NUMBER of daylight hours is HIGHER. Your area may drop from 12 hours of daylight in summer to 9 in winter.... that's a big difference. Additionally the INTENSITY of the sun is not as great in winter as it is in summer. This means the plant is not collecting as much light. I would GUESTIMATE you need to at double the DAYS to harvest to account for your growing conditions. If you decide to go forward I would opt for varieties that tend to grow well in colder climates that NATURALLY have less intense sun and shorter days (or install lighting if you don't have it and perhaps some heat). REMEMBER your soil temp needs to stay at about 16c -- so if your pots are on the ground or if you are planting directly into the soil, the cold may creep into the soil from below. There are specific tomato varietals bred for cold hardiness which will tolerate conditions at or below 55 degrees F. (13 C.). The best choices for colder climates are short to mid-season tomatoes. These tomatoes set fruit not only in cooler temps, but also reach maturity in the shortest number of days; around 52-70 days. I would look to some indeterminate cherry or plum size tomatoes (so small tomatoes) with very low days to harvest. I have never grow this tomato -- but -- Originally developed for cool rainy nights, Quedlinburger Frühe Liebe (or as I like to say, QFL) is a German heirloom tomato variety that’s ready for harvest in just 40 days after transplanting (!!!) and keeps producing until killed by a freeze. This makes it quite an amazing all-season plant and a real keeper in the garden if you’re prone to cold snaps. QFL is sweet and flavorful with small, juicy red fruits ==> tomatofest (internet site in the USA) says : Old German potato-leaf variety means "Early love of Qued Linburg". Small spindly vines produce 1 1/2-inch, round, 4-lobed fruit in clusters of 4. These tomatoes have great flavor with good acidity. Developed for cool rainy nights. Prolific even during colder summers. **** you really need to review the conditions in your green house -- day and night time temps, hours of sunlight --and you need to choose your variety wisely -- and even then, this might be difficult -- a lot depends on your greenhouse.

- faith Celeste Archer

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