Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

18 Apr 19, karen (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
re: end rot_ always put calcium of some kind in the planting hole then feed with powdered calcium and maybe spent coffee - diluted, a couple of times in the growing season. I collect all my eggshells and use, powdered, for all the mandrake plants, especially the ones in pots - once a month application for potted plants.\
13 Apr 19, Sandy (USA - Zone 6b climate)
Can I plant my tomatoes now and til April 24 without any damage to my plant. I plan on putting straw around them for added protection
08 Apr 19, Di Gates (Australia - tropical climate)
I have been planting tomatoes in my veggie patch, but the fruit never goes a nice bright red, they are always blotchy orangey red. I have tried different varieties, but they all do the same thing. Is it the soil, or too much sun, or the bore water which is quite hard? They taste ok, just look unattractive. I was going to try growing them in pots this year, then at least I can rule out the soil.
18 Feb 19, Mary Doughty (USA - Zone 7a climate)
I'm having problems with grub's in my yard and garden. Has anyone ever used a spray called milky spore. If any one has how long does it take to get rid of them. The moels are reeking havock on everything because of them. Dogs digging after the moels is a completely different story and problem. Any advice would be appreciated thank you.
08 Jun 20, Ryan Riendeau (USA - Zone 10a climate)
Earth-friendly beneficial nematodes seek out and kill grubs and other soil-inhabiting insects. They come on a sponge (invisible to naked eye) that you soak in water, put in a sprayer and spray your dirt or lawn. They will multiply over time and continue to kill grubs You can buy them online or at your local nursery.
16 Feb 19, Peter (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
my roma tomatoes have got a big brown spot on the very end just as it starts to show colour, what would you say that is ?
19 Feb 19, Carmen J. (Australia - temperate climate)
Looks like is lacking calcium, normally we put fertilizer but we forget to put calcium, get some dolomite or some rock dust.
25 Jun 19, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Use Epsom salt - a teaspoon in the hole at planting and even sprinkle another on top of the soil a few weeks later.
18 Feb 19, mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Blossom end rot by the sounds of it. Buy some Epsom Salts and put in your garden - from supermarkets. Couple of $$ for 1 kg.
20 Aug 19, Marie B (Australia - temperate climate)
Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate and doesn’t address the lack of calcium. For this coming spring you can buy calcium at Bunnings or your nursery but if you add finely crushed eggshells in your soil and let it degrade over the winter months you will not have to buy calcium again. Boiled eggs water and fish bones buried in soil work wonders against blossom end rot.
Showing 201 - 210 of 799 comments

Of course there are lots of factors (soil watering etc.), I\ll point out a few you may have issues with. I'm a little concerned about your night time temperatures harming the growth or steady growth of your tomatoes -- in addition Blossom drop will occur in if daytime temperatures are warm but night temps drop below 55 F. (13 C.) -- a condition that can easily occur in a greenhouse in winter. When you look at days to harvest for tomatoes -- they are assuming spring/summer growing -- which means the NUMBER of daylight hours is HIGHER. Your area may drop from 12 hours of daylight in summer to 9 in winter.... that's a big difference. Additionally the INTENSITY of the sun is not as great in winter as it is in summer. This means the plant is not collecting as much light. I would GUESTIMATE you need to at double the DAYS to harvest to account for your growing conditions. If you decide to go forward I would opt for varieties that tend to grow well in colder climates that NATURALLY have less intense sun and shorter days (or install lighting if you don't have it and perhaps some heat). REMEMBER your soil temp needs to stay at about 16c -- so if your pots are on the ground or if you are planting directly into the soil, the cold may creep into the soil from below. There are specific tomato varietals bred for cold hardiness which will tolerate conditions at or below 55 degrees F. (13 C.). The best choices for colder climates are short to mid-season tomatoes. These tomatoes set fruit not only in cooler temps, but also reach maturity in the shortest number of days; around 52-70 days. I would look to some indeterminate cherry or plum size tomatoes (so small tomatoes) with very low days to harvest. I have never grow this tomato -- but -- Originally developed for cool rainy nights, Quedlinburger Frühe Liebe (or as I like to say, QFL) is a German heirloom tomato variety that’s ready for harvest in just 40 days after transplanting (!!!) and keeps producing until killed by a freeze. This makes it quite an amazing all-season plant and a real keeper in the garden if you’re prone to cold snaps. QFL is sweet and flavorful with small, juicy red fruits ==> tomatofest (internet site in the USA) says : Old German potato-leaf variety means "Early love of Qued Linburg". Small spindly vines produce 1 1/2-inch, round, 4-lobed fruit in clusters of 4. These tomatoes have great flavor with good acidity. Developed for cool rainy nights. Prolific even during colder summers. **** you really need to review the conditions in your green house -- day and night time temps, hours of sunlight --and you need to choose your variety wisely -- and even then, this might be difficult -- a lot depends on your greenhouse.

- faith Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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