Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
P                 P P P

(Best months for growing Potato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 10°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 30 - 40 cm apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

18 Feb 17, John Mauger (Australia - temperate climate)
Potatoes need about 3 months to harvest from planting for 'new' potatoes. That is about a month after flowering. If you can get 3 months before frosts give it a go or plant them in a frost-protected area. New potatoes are delicious but won't store like Old potatoes which are harvested after the tops die off. Trust this helps.
05 Jan 17, Wendy (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Is January too late to plant potatoes and if not which variety should I consider? Thanks for your advice
20 Jan 17, Bill Gee (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
See Otago Daily Times Friday 20 January, "plant early maturing potatoes now for harvest at Easter."
02 Feb 17, (New Zealand - temperate climate)
You can plant a late crop of potatoes in January as long as you have sprouted seed ready. One thing to be wary of is the Psyllid bug as it is active as the weather warms up. There are mesh products available that you drape over the crop and that keeps the bugs off.
27 Mar 16, Julia (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Can I get Dutch cream potatoes in NZ? I want to plant them.
30 May 14, Ngaire (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Two questions: Will Dutch Creams grow in Southern Qld and are Dutch Cream organic seed potatoes available in New Zealand?
28 Nov 11, Selwyn Law (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
I have grown some potatoes in flexi-bins - the light cheaper ones, 30 and 40 litre sizes. Drainage holes I melted into the sides of the containers with a hot pipe (neat holes) about 50mm or 2" up from the bottom. The holes being higher, allows a pool of water to remain in the pot and excess to drain out. Try a little potting mix about half full and top up the shoots with straw etc. Works well and containers are reasonably easy to move if required.
09 Jan 11, Laura Kidd (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi, We have planted some potatoes and they are almost ready to harvest. I'm not really sure of the variety as my husband planted some potatoes, not from seed. It looks like there are some seed pods forming whee the flowers are. Can we use these for our next crop? If so, what do er have to do?
10 May 10, Liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Click on the 'Vegetables and Herbs' tab and you will find sweet potato under S. Individual vegetables only show up on the home page calendar when they are due to be planted.
27 Oct 09, nial (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
hiw long does it take a potato to grow
Showing 51 - 60 of 68 comments

Technically you don't HAVE TO HILL any variety of potatoes. Here's how it works: you plant the seed potato (which is an extra small potato saved/stored from last year's harvest -- or a piece of a larger potato that you stored/saved from last year) -- the DEPTH THAT you PLANT that SEED POTATO determines your LOWEST POINT -- GENERALLY, and I do mean GENERALLY (like 95% of the potatoes) the potato plant will not create tubers LOWER than the depth you planted the seed potato at (so your seed potato is the BOTTOM of the plants tubers/potatoes). Which is why some people think the very bottom potato always rots, when in reality it is the seed potato and is expected to grow and will appear rotten. Which means if you don't hill up as your potato plant grows and you planted the seed potato shallow, there is not that much ROOM for the potato plant to put it's tubers, and larger tubers will usually "pop" out of the soil and turn green due to sun exposure. If you don't want to hill up, plant your seed potato deeper than recommended -- yes it will be fine -- the reason you plant shallow and mound up is because the potato plant will be able to get leaves into the sun sooner if it's seed potato was planted shallow, which means it will grow quicker because it is collecting light sooner -- then you mound up to offset that you planted the seed potato shallow, but you always leave lots of leaves exposed to the sun so the plant can collect sun and grow. It's a lot of extra work work to mound up soil-- and maybe speeds up the process "brings in the harvest" by 10 days or so.... My experience is planting seed potatoes a foot deep ((30cm) is fine -- yes the plant takes a little longer for it's leaves to surface -- but it's fine and you should not experience any problems - provided the soil is nice and loose. (hopefully that makes senses). I think in the future I will plant two potatoes side by side -- one deep, one using the mound method and record the progress and final outcomes... I have never done a tandem planting -- BUT I HAVE had potatoes spring up from deep down Once as I dug out one of these "self planted potatoes" I realized it was down about 30" (70cm) -- it was in a potato planting tower (old full size garbage can full of 3" holes all over) which I dumped and collect the potatoes from the year before, then just put the soil back, week by week, as I composted kitchen scraps directly into the soil... so no surprise that a potato was so deep -- it grew -- it put out potatoes and it's crop was average good... it spent a lot of energy growing up -- and perhaps I harvested too early based on the other potatoes-- but it made it and did OK, good size potatoes, good quantity. I would not recommend placing your seed potatoes that deep, but a foot (30cm) should be fine.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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