Growing Lettuce

lactuca sativa : Asteraceae / the daisy family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
P P P P P       P P P P

(Best months for growing Lettuce in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden, or start in seed trays and plant out in 4-6 weeks.. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 46°F and 81°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 8 - 12 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-12 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Carrots, Onions, Strawberries, Beets, Brassicas, Radish, Marigold, Borage, Chervil, Florence fennel, leeks.
  • Avoid growing close to: Parsley, Celery

Your comments and tips

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11 May 23, Kim Shallcross (USA - Zone 9b climate)
Can it get too hot in May for lettuce, mine seems to have turned bitter and is bolting
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14 Jun 23, Wendy (USA - Zone 7b climate)
You bet! Lettuce doesn't like the temperature to be above 80 degrees. Mine is bolting and bitter now too ( June in 7b)
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07 Oct 22, Irene Bollerman (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
why is it advised to "Avoid growing close to: Parsley, Celery"?
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10 Oct 22, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Some plants react with others or problems in the soil.
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01 Feb 22, Raymond Rich (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
Will it be to late to sow Lettuce seed in Johannesburg region in February. Have a well protected area from early cold and can provide sufficient water when rainfall reduces from March.
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02 Feb 22, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Try it.
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25 Jan 22, (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, when you say lettuce needs sunlight, does that have to be direct sunlight or can it be under a patio shelter that has a clear plastic roof? My veggie patch is in full sun, a very hot spot and they always bolt quickly, so I would like to try them out of direct sun, but in a bright area and easy access for keeping on top of the watering. Do you think this would still work? Thanks.
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09 Jan 25, John Doe (Australia - arid climate)
Yes, lettuce can grow well in indirect sunlight under a patio shelter. Ensure the area is bright and evenly watered.
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28 Feb 22, Rob (Australia - temperate climate)
Get some short garden stakes and peg some thick shade cloth to them. On really hot days, this saved ALL of my lettuce and only cost a few dollars.
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04 Feb 22, Celeste Archer (Canada - Zone 7b Mild Temperate climate)
Most clear plastic is considered direct sunlight - unless there are special filters in the plastic. That is to say, if the only thing between your lettuce and the sun is regular clear plastic, you should be fine. As and FYI there are multiple categories: 1. Direct sunlight - some plants require direct sunlight on their leaves 2. BRIGHT shade; for example when I lived in a Condo, my balcony had no direct sunlight, but because the buildings beside my building had huge glass windows I had VERY bright shade and could grow most full sun potted plants. This also applies to living near the water, where the sun gets reflected-- MOST full sun plants are fine with REFLECTED light but not all. This could also be a a very sunny field, with shade cast from one building, chances are good that would be very bright shade 3. Sun/Shade with all its variations 4. Light shade and 5. Deep shade like the middle of a dense forest. I see no reason why you could not grow SOME of your veggies in the bright shade. I find that many plants labelled full sun, are not. For example: strawberries are generally labelled full sun. However, strawberries TEND to grow naturally in the shade of other plants: woodland or forest floor, in meadows shaded by other plants. I've noticed that any of my strawberries that get full sun tend to have burnt leaves, and the best yielding strawberry plants are in a cool predominately shady areas. I suspect that planting your plants that tend to bolt in a cooler shadier area would be very helpful. I've even grown cherry tomatoes in very bright shade with great success.
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Hi Russ - it's all about feeing the soil and creating humus, as small boxes provide limited access to nutrients (even using good quality potting mix) because they get eaten up so quickly by the hungry plants. a worm farm or compost are perfect so you can feed the soil regularly each week as natural fertiliser. also - are the boxes draining from the bottom? when you water, the nutrients run straight out the bottom and the plants cant access them. You can build really simple self watering containers in old broccoli boxes... punch a few holes along a horizontal line, about 1/4 from the bottom of the box. then fill to this line with pebbles or gravel - this creates a water table where water will sit and if too much water is added it spills out through the holes. put the soil on top with lots of compost and worm castings, plant your vegies, and then mulch on top. this system allows the roots to reach water at the bottom, but stops the soil from being water-logged. it also allows you to mulch and build humus within the soil without draining it all away. I even water at the edges of the box so that the water goes straight to the water area without disturbing the humus to stop any nutrients draining away. i hope this makes sense! I read Jackie French's Soil Food Web book which was also really helpful. good luck!

- Catherine

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