Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  P P P

(Best months for growing Cucumber in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed

October: After risk of frost

  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

15 May 20, Tracey (USA - Zone 6b climate)
Can cucumbers be planted by berries?
15 May 20, ASHLEY (USA - Zone 9b climate)
Hi, I was curious to know if I could sow/start cucumbers from seed indoors?
25 Apr 20, Mr salam al imran (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
I need a English cucumber seeds bt how I get plz let me know
27 Apr 20, Anon (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate)
Try the internet for seed selling websites.
25 Apr 20, Alex (Australia - arid climate)
Hi have some Lebanese cucumber plants that were growing very well and fruit more than I could use, The last month or so the older leaves have yellowed and the new growth is tending to cluster including the flowers and look dwarf like. It is still fruiting but not much. Any ideas? Thank you.
27 Apr 20, Another gardener (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
My guess is it is coming to the end of its life. Sometimes you have two or three flushes of flowers and fruit and then that is about it. It has taken a lot of nutrient from the soil and there isn't much left to support the plant. The leaves start dying and that is the end of it's life cycle.
18 Apr 20, Stephanie (USA - Zone 8a climate)
This is my first year planting in this zone as I recently moved here. I am used to planting in a much different climate. My other plants in my garden seem to be doing well. However, my cucumbers are dying. Please help!! I plant 2 foot apart. I planted next to green beans and radishes. Are they getting too much water?not enough fertilizer?
25 Dec 20, Zain (USA - Zone 8a climate)
Cucumbers growth’s slows down when the temperature goes over 95 degrees and also below 50 degrees
17 Apr 20, Daniella (Australia - temperate climate)
2 little cucumber plants is growing now as we're in authum please advice me if I can grow the plants outdoor in a pot? Thanks a million Daniella
20 Apr 20, (Australia - temperate climate)
Read when to plant in the temperate climate.
Showing 81 - 90 of 497 comments

The rules of companion planting indicate that cucumbers and tomatoes/potatoes should not be planted in close proximity to one another. Let's consider what companion planting is all about first. 1. Companion planting is about creating a diversity in the garden that reduces the chances of PESTs/disease wiping out your garden. So in CP you don't plant things that are prone to the same diseases or attract the same pests close together. In the case of cukes and tomatoes it is: fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. (there could be more things...but this is enough that you have violated one of CP rules). 2. CP is about nutrition in the soil -- that is, you would not plant two things in close proximity that both require heavy amount of any particular mineral/vitamin. So for example if both plants are heavy feeders of potassium -- clearly they would compete too heavily for this resource most likely all plants would not get enough potassium. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require lots of nitrogen and potassium. Pale, yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency. Leaf bronzing is a sign of potassium deficiency. Potatoes LOVE potassium, and low levels of potassium cause hollow heart (the middle of the potatoes looks like it is rotting), further the potato plant needs ALL it's potassium at the early stages (BEFORE setting tubers). Potatoes are also HEAVY feeders. Tomatoes are HEAVY feeders. So CP says not to plant heavy feeders next to each other... they compete to much for nutrition. Ok, so now you know why CP says not to plant these plants next to each other. The question then becomes.... but CAN I still do it knowing about the wilt and mildew and potassium and general heavy feeding of all the plants.... SURE, BUT be sure to add lots of nutrition to the soil (compost/manure) add lots of potassium (before planting mainly) and be sure to top up the nutrition during the growing phases... so maybe add manure/compost before planting, mid season and again when fruit starts setting. Also all these plants LOVE water... and lots of it, and this to me, makes it convenient when watering, to have my water lovers all in one spot... that way I can just dump a 5 gallon bucket of water int he middle of them. Also, careful how you trellis the cucumber, you don't want to create a roof over the tomatoes/potatoes that will hold moisture and encourage the mildews.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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