Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  P P P

(Best months for growing Cucumber in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed

October: After risk of frost

  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

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11 May 11, Minoli (Australia - temperate climate)
Sorry to hear this....cucumber has to be planted in January if you are around Sydney.... it needs lots of sun light and water... potty mix is sufficient if its a good soil.... buy plants and not seeds.... then it grows faster.....and gives a good crop...re. egg plant ...see my comment.
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12 May 11, Jess (Australia - temperate climate)
Yeah, I started In October with seedlings, and have tried again in Mid January with seeds. I know we're out of season now though. There must be something missing from this equation! :-)
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05 Apr 11, Tom Summers (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have planted lebanese cucumbers(or so it said on the packet) the plants have grown well and are healthy and have lots of flowers but as yet no fruit. I read that Lcs did not require pollination. Any thoughts tips or advice, regards Tom Summers ( Brisbane)
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20 Apr 11, Brooke (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I've found with young plants they often produce flowers whithout the fruit when they first start flowering but then do eventually start to fruit as well.
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20 Apr 11, Brooke (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I've found with young plants they often produce flowers whithout the fruit when they first start flowering but then do eventually start to fruit as well.
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09 Mar 11, Sam Moloney (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I've just planted some cucumber seeds into my brand new veggie patch and they sprouted within a few days. The seedlings are growing really well but I've got 2 - 3 big "clumps" of 4 - 5 seedlings each. Obviously I have to thin them out but I'm not 100% sure when I should do this? The seedlings are about 10cm tall already (after 10 days!)..
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09 Mar 11, Liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Sam, You could thin them out quite soon by using scissors to snip off the plants that you don't want as close to the ground as you can. If you try to pull them out, you might end up with the whole lot lifting and damaging their roots.
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14 Mar 11, Sam (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Thanks for that. One more question (this applies to thinning out other plants too) - do I just leave one seedling in each spot or can I still leave 2 - 3??
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20 Feb 11, Melissa (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Maybe, if the main stem isn't broken off from the roots. I'd water it with a weak seaweed concentrate every day for a week before discarding it.
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22 Feb 11, Beth (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks Melissa - yes, seaweed solution was my automatic response, but I hadn't thought of keeping it up for a week. I'm following your advice and am very pleased to report that my plant is looking much healthier. Thanks again!
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Showing 411 - 420 of 498 comments
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The rules of companion planting indicate that cucumbers and tomatoes/potatoes should not be planted in close proximity to one another. Let's consider what companion planting is all about first. 1. Companion planting is about creating a diversity in the garden that reduces the chances of PESTs/disease wiping out your garden. So in CP you don't plant things that are prone to the same diseases or attract the same pests close together. In the case of cukes and tomatoes it is: fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. (there could be more things...but this is enough that you have violated one of CP rules). 2. CP is about nutrition in the soil -- that is, you would not plant two things in close proximity that both require heavy amount of any particular mineral/vitamin. So for example if both plants are heavy feeders of potassium -- clearly they would compete too heavily for this resource most likely all plants would not get enough potassium. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require lots of nitrogen and potassium. Pale, yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency. Leaf bronzing is a sign of potassium deficiency. Potatoes LOVE potassium, and low levels of potassium cause hollow heart (the middle of the potatoes looks like it is rotting), further the potato plant needs ALL it's potassium at the early stages (BEFORE setting tubers). Potatoes are also HEAVY feeders. Tomatoes are HEAVY feeders. So CP says not to plant heavy feeders next to each other... they compete to much for nutrition. Ok, so now you know why CP says not to plant these plants next to each other. The question then becomes.... but CAN I still do it knowing about the wilt and mildew and potassium and general heavy feeding of all the plants.... SURE, BUT be sure to add lots of nutrition to the soil (compost/manure) add lots of potassium (before planting mainly) and be sure to top up the nutrition during the growing phases... so maybe add manure/compost before planting, mid season and again when fruit starts setting. Also all these plants LOVE water... and lots of it, and this to me, makes it convenient when watering, to have my water lovers all in one spot... that way I can just dump a 5 gallon bucket of water int he middle of them. Also, careful how you trellis the cucumber, you don't want to create a roof over the tomatoes/potatoes that will hold moisture and encourage the mildews.

- Celeste Archer

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