Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  P P P

(Best months for growing Cucumber in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed

October: After risk of frost

  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

29 Feb 12, Barb (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi Diana, I find wiping the freshly picked cucumber with a cloth removes the prickles, then you can handle them without being pricked.
27 Feb 12, Diana Pryde (Australia - temperate climate)
How do you avoid prickling yourself when preparing cucumbers for salads?
11 Feb 12, Rhonda (Australia - temperate climate)
I have a burpless cucumber and it is growong well I have had about 4 normal cucumber. But now it is growing one that look more like a rockmelon any sugegestion.
01 Feb 12, chris (Australia - temperate climate)
I have been trying to grow la diva cucumbers ,the vine is going great and getting lots of flowers but only very small cucumbers before they wilt and die ,i have not seen any bees around , maybe they are not getting polinated .HELP
28 Jan 12, jill (Australia - temperate climate)
white spots on leaves making leaves dry & brittle
21 Jan 12, john murray (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
do you pick cucumber when the stems dry the same as pumpkin
02 Feb 12, Jen (Australia - temperate climate)
I am growing a Lebanese cucumber and I pick them when they are small (about 10cm) as they are very sweet, they occasionally get to store size if the children don't find them first! The telegraph variety I picked at about 25 cm. I have never waited for vines to die down.
08 Jan 12, Jill (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have had a massive crop of lebanese cucumbers which stopped producing a couple of weeks ago. Now I am getting tennis ball or slightly larger cucumbers - haven't tried them yet but they are very hard. These are coming off the same vine as the earlier lebanese. What causes this please?
04 Jan 12, Sandra (Australia - temperate climate)
I am growing cucumber up a trellis - they have just started to fruit and I have picked one but the skin seems scarred or eaten a bit (not through to the inside) rather a motley look. Does anyone know what that would be?? What could I spray or do to stop it.
14 Aug 12, john (Australia - temperate climate)
hi. that sounds like slugs or snails wait till night.take a torch with you and you will find out;
Showing 381 - 390 of 497 comments

The rules of companion planting indicate that cucumbers and tomatoes/potatoes should not be planted in close proximity to one another. Let's consider what companion planting is all about first. 1. Companion planting is about creating a diversity in the garden that reduces the chances of PESTs/disease wiping out your garden. So in CP you don't plant things that are prone to the same diseases or attract the same pests close together. In the case of cukes and tomatoes it is: fusarium wilt and powdery mildew. (there could be more things...but this is enough that you have violated one of CP rules). 2. CP is about nutrition in the soil -- that is, you would not plant two things in close proximity that both require heavy amount of any particular mineral/vitamin. So for example if both plants are heavy feeders of potassium -- clearly they would compete too heavily for this resource most likely all plants would not get enough potassium. Cucumbers are heavy feeders and require lots of nitrogen and potassium. Pale, yellowish leaves indicate nitrogen deficiency. Leaf bronzing is a sign of potassium deficiency. Potatoes LOVE potassium, and low levels of potassium cause hollow heart (the middle of the potatoes looks like it is rotting), further the potato plant needs ALL it's potassium at the early stages (BEFORE setting tubers). Potatoes are also HEAVY feeders. Tomatoes are HEAVY feeders. So CP says not to plant heavy feeders next to each other... they compete to much for nutrition. Ok, so now you know why CP says not to plant these plants next to each other. The question then becomes.... but CAN I still do it knowing about the wilt and mildew and potassium and general heavy feeding of all the plants.... SURE, BUT be sure to add lots of nutrition to the soil (compost/manure) add lots of potassium (before planting mainly) and be sure to top up the nutrition during the growing phases... so maybe add manure/compost before planting, mid season and again when fruit starts setting. Also all these plants LOVE water... and lots of it, and this to me, makes it convenient when watering, to have my water lovers all in one spot... that way I can just dump a 5 gallon bucket of water int he middle of them. Also, careful how you trellis the cucumber, you don't want to create a roof over the tomatoes/potatoes that will hold moisture and encourage the mildews.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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