Growing Cucumber

cucumis sativis : Cucurbitaceae / the gourd family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  P P P

(Best months for growing Cucumber in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed

October: After risk of frost

  • Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-10 weeks. Cut fruit off with scissors or sharp knife.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Nasturtiums, Beans, Celery, Lettuce, Sweet Corn, Cabbages, Sunflowers, Coriander, Fennel, Dill, Sunflowers
  • Avoid growing close to: Potato, Tomatoes

Your comments and tips

Post a comment or question Display Newest first | Oldest first, Show comments for New Zealand | for all countries
04 Dec 19, Anon (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
If your soil is sandy and you do a lot of watering, then you would leach out the nutrients. Have to apply more fert.
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29 Nov 19, anon (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Depends how old the plants are, if 8-10+ weeks then leaves yellowing off would only be natural.
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28 Nov 19, Liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
The yellow leaves might be due to too much fertilizer. Try just using one type. They should grow if you are giving them enough water and protecting from very cold nights. The female flowers have a tiny, cucumber shape just behind the flower.
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25 Nov 19, David (Australia - temperate climate)
my apple cucumber die just after they come up ,they get about 3 or 4 leaves on them then they just die off. can you help???
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02 Mar 20, Jason (Australia - temperate climate)
Not a lot of info to go on... what happened to the leaves? And how often did you water? I'd hazard a guess at overwatering/poor drainage, as from your description it happened suddenly. Or possibly pests, but I guess you'd have noticed that
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26 Nov 19, anon (Australia - temperate climate)
Don't have your soil boggy wet either. Have good draining soil. If very hot protect them from the sun a bit while they establish themselves.
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26 Nov 19, anon (Australia - temperate climate)
My first thought is watering. If hot to very hot weather little plants need watering morning and afternoon. Little plants only have a shallow root system so require watering a lot more often. If the leaves are not eaten then maybe watering. If the leaves have parts eaten off, then some kind of grub probably. Big plants need a lot of watering - just common sense. .
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16 Nov 19, Mick (Australia - temperate climate)
What fertiliser can you use on apple cucumbers crystal
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18 Nov 19, Anon (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
A comment about WHAT fertiliser to use on different plants. In a hardware store's catalogue last week. Complete Garden Fertiliser NPKS 12-1-5-16, Fruit & Citrus 13-1-5-16, Rose 11-1-6-15. Like really, they are virtually the same fertiliser. We are brainwashed about all the different fertilisers to use. My local agronomist recommends for vegetables what the commercial farmers use Nitrophoska 12 N 5.2 P 14.1K 8S and you can have it with trace elements also. Works for me. Or if you are an organic person use organics but you need to apply about 2-3 time the required amount per square meter to have the same NPKS.
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18 Nov 19, Anon (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
General all-round vegetable fertiliser.
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Showing 111 - 120 of 497 comments
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Have you had a lot of humidity (higher than usual) lately ? If so, your plants may be having a hard time transpiring. Transpiration is the process of releasing moisture (like sweating and evaporation rolled into one). Plants suck up water through their roots and move the water up through their stems and into their leaves, where they release the water (transpiration). Only about 5-10% of the water they intake is used for growth - the rest is released into the environment. The movement of water facilitates the movement of nutrients. So if the movement of water is SLOWED due to really high humidity (and this mostly happens in greenhouses when they are not properly ventilated) plants start to show signs of nutrient deficiencies of all kinds (maybe blossom end rot in tomatoes despite having plenty of bio-available calcium in the soil). That is to say; you could have a lot of misleading signs like: blossom end rot, or nitrogen deficiency (honestly I'm not sure which nutrients need the most water to be moved).....but the take away is the signs could be really confusing, and appear totally illogical. This only happens in high humidity situations; again like an improperly vented greenhouse, or if somehow you have managed to trap the humidity in your space...... this is a long shot.....but I lived on the Gold Coast (Broad Beach area) 30+ years ago...... and I still remember how humid it could get... especially further North. Clearly, some plants are better at moving the water in high humidity situations....tomatoes tend to have difficulty in very high humidity. Ensuring proper air flow may be helpful.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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