Growing Carrot

Daucus carota : Apiaceae / the umbelliferae family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
P P             P P P P

(Best months for growing Carrot in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed

January: water well

September: broadcast sow

  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 8°C and 30°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 5 - 30 cm apart
  • Harvest in 12-18 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Onions, Leeks, Lettuce, Sage, Peas, Radishes, Tomatoes, Beans, Celery, Rosemary
  • Avoid growing close to: Parsnips, Beetroot, Dill, Brassicas, Fennel

Your comments and tips

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02 Feb 19, Anne (New Zealand - temperate climate)
can i still grow carrot seeds now early February thanks
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08 Jun 17, Shane Cave (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Nematodes are ruining my carrots, what can I do?
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09 Jun 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Short of sterilising the soil (not recommended) you have a number of options. Crop rotation is you first option; by doing this you will be breaking the cycle of these pests. Plant nematode-resistant varieties; this is not so easy as seed will probably only be available from commercial seed companies. Plant marigolds in the season before your carrots: the pungent smelling marigold roots give off a substance that will deter nematodes. In some South-East Asian countries villagers do this to protect their vegetables, linking the gold flower to Buddha who is said to be protecting their crops. Trust this helps/
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09 Oct 17, Leigh (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
My aunty swore by growing carrots in sand, I tried it by pouring sand into the hole at planting time, I didn't have any problems( it could have been beginers luck, am trying again this year in a different spot in the garden). That said I don't know if this was to deter nematodes or carrot rustfly/ or eelworms. Good luck
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03 Apr 17, Catherine (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Thank you. My soil is very free draining and deep as it is on a hill and has sands with it. I will plant next season's carrots where this season's peas were.
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28 Mar 17, Kate (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
I sow carrots every year but since living near the sea most of my biggest carrots split. I can make soup of the split carrots as they are tender but that is all. I do not put them in manured areas although I generally have grown a green crop in the winter and have it well dug in before I sow. Should I save an area from the green crop?
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30 Mar 17, Jack (Australia - temperate climate)
Splitting carrots in fruit and vegetables is generally an indicator of too much water suddenly. The skin of the fruit or vegetable that is affected can't handle the increase in water intake and will split. I have seen tomatoes, carrots, apricots, capsicums and oranges affected. In your location extra rainfall can't be controlled so ensure that drainage is good. Fresh manure causes forked and twisted roots as the decomposers working on the manure can damage the growing root tip causing it to fork. A leaf crop followed by a fruit crop (beans, tomatoes, etc) then a root crop is a good rule of thumb to follow.
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06 Feb 17, mark (New Zealand - temperate climate)
tried to grow carrots for 2 seasons now i doen take off. carrots only size of my small finger as the biggest of the crop.how can i fix it?
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07 Feb 17, John (Australia - temperate climate)
There are a number of reasons why your carrots are small. Carrots like deep friable (loose and fine) soil so if it is only shallow try and dig it deeper and break it up. They also do not like too much nitrogen in the soil. If you have a lot of fresh manure they will grow big tops and small carrots. If your soil is shallow and has clay close to the surface plant the round varieties and eat them when they are golf ball size. Maybe they are not getting enough water. I suggest you think about all these things and also make sure to plant the right variety for the time of year. I'm sorry I can't help you more but trust these suggestions help. All the best for your next crop!
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01 Dec 16, Elizabeth (New Zealand - temperate climate)
I have grown carrots successfully for years but my latest crop of young carrots are all white!!!! why
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Showing 11 - 20 of 23 comments
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Carrots: -- Germination minimum temp is 2c: optimum germination temp is 10c to 25c (the temperatures must be sustained). Seeds germinate over a 2-week period -- if crust forms on the top of the soil, germination will be restricted. *********** Optimum growing temps : 15C to 20C , with a minimum of 5C and a maximum of 24C Outside of the growing range (less than 5c or more than 24c) the carrot goes into "dormancy/holding pattern" with extreme temps killing the carrot. ********* Average days to harvest for carrots is 60 to 80 days. The days to harvest are calculated based on ideal growing conditions (temperatures/sunshine/water). *************** Having lived in your area MANY years ago – I can recall – and checked with environment Canada – Based on last year’s temp – June was a good month to start planting carrots – and September had decent carrot growing temps – as did the first week of October. I would plant carrots in semi-shade as Stoney Creek can get VERY HOT in mid-summer – and this is a problem for carrots that don’t like temps over 24c. ********* So, what I see is a total of 129 days of good carrot growing weather (June 01 – to the first week in October). You need 2 weeks for germination and depending on the type of carrot about 80 days to harvest: total of 94 days. If you plant starting June 01 – you can plant carrots every couple of weeks until around July 5th (07/05 plus 95 days yields a date in the first week in October). If you want to do only 2 plantings – then I would plant on June 01, and again the last week of June. This is based on 80 days to harvest – if you have carrots with a higher number of days to germination and/or days to harvest (like dragon carrots that take 90 days) – adjust accordingly. You need your last harvest in by the first week in October so count backward to find your last planting date. Bolero Nantes have the following stats: Germination 10 - 20 days and days to harvest 70. The site indicates that your last planting should be 3 months before your first expected frost date -- and it looks like your first expected frost date is October 15 -- which yields a last planting date of: July 15th which is a couple of weeks later than what I have calculated .... remember that Nobody can guarantee what your weather will be ..... when it comes to your last planting, I would error to the side of planting a little early -- and I would feel a little bit short on time with a July 15th planting...but I have heard of people planting later and doing just fine.

- Celeste Archer

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