Growing Broad Beans, also Fava bean

Vicia faba : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P     P P      

(Best months for growing Broad Beans in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 43°F and 75°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 6 - 10 inches apart
  • Harvest in 12-22 weeks. Pick frequently to encourage more pods.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dill, Potatoes

Your comments and tips

29 Apr 22, Lynn Laurent (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Since moving to Tauranga I have found it better to plant broadbeans mid winter …. June as any earlier the flowers are not pollenated. Wait until mid winter so the bees will be active when the plants begin to flower. That way you don’t lose the first line of beans. Uncle in Hastings always did the same. Then they crop November into December.
02 Apr 22, Peter (Australia - temperate climate)
You need some warmth greenhouse effect, try plant seeding in some moonlight or artificial light small amounts of spagnum moss on bottom Ive used not too damp as mold can effect seedling you may not see it good luck.with planting..
06 Oct 21, Pete (Australia - temperate climate)
I took a look at my Broad Beans today. They have an infestation of very small insects. could they be Aphids? Thanks in advance> Cheers Pete
08 Oct 21, Deidre (Australia - temperate climate)
Highly likely Pete. Ideally, sit on your hands as the ladybugs and parasitic wasps will take care of the aphid population.
02 Mar 23, Bruce (Australia - temperate climate)
My broad beans were overtaken by aphids. I tried a pyrethrum spray but the aphids won. All the stalks and leaves were totally covered. Any thoughts?
06 Sep 21, Nigel (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
My beans have been flowering for 2 months. Lots of continuous flowers but so far no beans. Ideas please.
27 Sep 21, Steve (New Zealand - temperate climate)
My understanding is that you have to wait for the bees to arrive to pollonate the plant. I had the same issue last year as well. Just need to wait a bit longer
07 Sep 21, (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
I had the same problem in sub-tropical Australia last. They probably prefer a cooler climate like yours. I put it down to wind last year although I have no idea. Maybe google about it or ring an agricultural dept.
26 Aug 21, adrienne Margaret mcgrath (New Zealand - temperate climate)
my broad beans are only about two foot high and have flowers,?
20 Aug 21, Richard Stancliffe (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
Are the plants frost tolerant? We get -5degC frosts through to the end of October. I have a dozen 30cm plants to plant out. Cheers
Showing 21 - 30 of 344 comments

Update June 01, 2021 - I have lots and lots of fava beans - and am continuing to get more and more. It looks like it will take until the end of the month to bring them all in. So these beans will take about 320 days from planting to full harvest. The haul was great and I am pleased with the overwintering process - very pleased. The beans that I planted in spring are still a ways off from producing beans -- the plants are also much smaller, and I doubt they will put forth as many beans as the favas that were overwintered. The overwintered favas are a mess, with the tarp damage and some favas rocketing up to what looks to be 9 feet, reaching for the sun (they are in a shady location) - but I am pleased. If I had only grown the spring planted favas, I might have given up on favas all together...... but overwintering seems to be the key here in Victoria, British Columbia for a really good crop of beans...... and I would even grow these in the winter for the greens -- they take a bit of getting use to (as did spinach for me when I was a child) -- but once you get use to the greens they are great. The greens taste like fava beans, and not like any other green. I have a few corrections from my first few posts: 1. when I said I lost 1/3 of the plants that were not covered during the really cold week --- it should have said I lost a third of each plant that was not tarped: so if the plant was 9 feet, I had to cut it back to 6feet. The number of plants actually lost was zero. While I only lost a portion of SOME of the tarped plants and when there was a loss it was about 10% of the plant. Also the plants not covered where in a much windier location (think one step and your off a 12 foot drop and in the Pacific Ocean--so lots of wind) -- the plants that were covered where a couple of meters away from the drop off, and there is noticeably less wind there. So whether or not the tarp really makes a difference here is still debatable; the difference may have been wind chill. 2. when I said I used the fava bean leaves as a garnish in my soups over the winter; it was really more akin to a side salad on top of my soup -- big handful of leaves -- sometime harvested based on a branch breaking due to wind. Stems were ground into pesto. Again, I'm very pleased with overwintering my favas; and expect that in the future I will only overwinter rather than spring plant. Winters here are RAINY with lows at about -2 (and extreme lows as cold as -6 last winter), it is also overcast here during the winter with very few sun breaks.... luckily I get a lot of reflection off the water when the sun does peak through. I grew 4 varieties of fava; including the extra early violets; all performed well; the violets are the prettiest if you take them to the dried pod stage; they all taste about the same.

- FaithCeleste Archer

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