Growing Broad Beans, also Fava bean

Vicia faba : Fabaceae / the pea or legume family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
      P P     P P      

(Best months for growing Broad Beans in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Sow seed
  • Easy to grow. Sow in garden. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 43°F and 75°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 6 - 10 inches apart
  • Harvest in 12-22 weeks. Pick frequently to encourage more pods.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Dill, Potatoes

Your comments and tips

01 Nov 09, gary (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Lindsay, it's both. Broad beans are legumes meaning they convert nitrogen in the atmosphere into nitrogen in the soil. The nitrogen is attached to their roots and becomes available in the soil once the beans die down. The best approach is to cut the plants off at soil level once they've finished for the season. You can then lay the tops on the soil or use it as mulch elsewhere in the garden. It, too adds nitrogen to the soil as it beaks down.
25 Oct 09, Leslie W. (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I have planted Broad beans and they are flowering, but some of the leaves are reluctant to unfold. The next planting is worse. No insects are visible. Anyone got any clues leslie
22 May 10, Henk van der Pols (Australia - temperate climate)
About half of my broad bean leaves are kind of 'curled up'. There does not seem to be a fungus of any kind. Any brilliant ideas, anyone?
19 Oct 09, LIndsay (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I know broad beans are good for the soil. Is it the growing that puts the goodness in the soil or burying the empty pods and plants that puts the goodness in the soil or is it both?
14 Sep 09, Emily (Australia - temperate climate)
My beans are growing very well!! Well not the actual fruit itself but the bush is plenty and many more flowers are budding daily. I guess i need to wait till the temperature heats up a bit, for the beans to form. However, do i need a terrace or something for the beans to climb up on.
12 Sep 09, pigflyin (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
our beans are podding furiously for the last few weeks. about 6 inches long.... hardest part is to decide when to pick them. Got in 2 today, one is good size, one too small. FUN! pick off the growing tip does seems to encourage the pod to fatten faster... or it must be my wishful thinking.
10 Sep 09, Brian (Australia - temperate climate)
Our beans are growing well, with lots of flowers that the bees are enjoying. But on the whole patch, there is only one pod forming. Should we be patient and expect the others to follow the lone example? Is there anything we can do to encourage podding?
07 Sep 09, Trent (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I'm growing BB for the first time and have noticed on a few of the plants the leaves are curling up lengthwise, starting from the tips of the plants. It doesn't look like a pest but I suspect it's a deficiency.Can anyone shed some light on this?
29 Aug 09, Cherry (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
This is the first time I have grown BB. How long after the plant flowers do you start to get the bean pods please.
27 Aug 09, Zoidberg (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Yes Nat you are right, the broad beans won't be killed by frost but they won't set pods in cool weather. You just have to wait until it's warm enough in your area for the pods to form - for us about mid-Spring.
Showing 281 - 290 of 344 comments

Update June 01, 2021 - I have lots and lots of fava beans - and am continuing to get more and more. It looks like it will take until the end of the month to bring them all in. So these beans will take about 320 days from planting to full harvest. The haul was great and I am pleased with the overwintering process - very pleased. The beans that I planted in spring are still a ways off from producing beans -- the plants are also much smaller, and I doubt they will put forth as many beans as the favas that were overwintered. The overwintered favas are a mess, with the tarp damage and some favas rocketing up to what looks to be 9 feet, reaching for the sun (they are in a shady location) - but I am pleased. If I had only grown the spring planted favas, I might have given up on favas all together...... but overwintering seems to be the key here in Victoria, British Columbia for a really good crop of beans...... and I would even grow these in the winter for the greens -- they take a bit of getting use to (as did spinach for me when I was a child) -- but once you get use to the greens they are great. The greens taste like fava beans, and not like any other green. I have a few corrections from my first few posts: 1. when I said I lost 1/3 of the plants that were not covered during the really cold week --- it should have said I lost a third of each plant that was not tarped: so if the plant was 9 feet, I had to cut it back to 6feet. The number of plants actually lost was zero. While I only lost a portion of SOME of the tarped plants and when there was a loss it was about 10% of the plant. Also the plants not covered where in a much windier location (think one step and your off a 12 foot drop and in the Pacific Ocean--so lots of wind) -- the plants that were covered where a couple of meters away from the drop off, and there is noticeably less wind there. So whether or not the tarp really makes a difference here is still debatable; the difference may have been wind chill. 2. when I said I used the fava bean leaves as a garnish in my soups over the winter; it was really more akin to a side salad on top of my soup -- big handful of leaves -- sometime harvested based on a branch breaking due to wind. Stems were ground into pesto. Again, I'm very pleased with overwintering my favas; and expect that in the future I will only overwinter rather than spring plant. Winters here are RAINY with lows at about -2 (and extreme lows as cold as -6 last winter), it is also overcast here during the winter with very few sun breaks.... luckily I get a lot of reflection off the water when the sun does peak through. I grew 4 varieties of fava; including the extra early violets; all performed well; the violets are the prettiest if you take them to the dried pod stage; they all taste about the same.

- FaithCeleste Archer

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply


All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate App

Put GardenGrow in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use GardenGrow and subscribe to the free GardenGrow planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About GardenGrow | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.