Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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28 Sep 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Bush varieties (determinates - like Roma) of tomatoes will produce a crop all at the same time basically. Where as indeterminates (cherry) will produce over several weeks/months. Yes you need to plant successive crops if you want to be picking all year.
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18 Sep 17, Irene kerford (Australia - temperate climate)
Beef steak does not have hardly any seed in them
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07 Sep 17, John Simon-Codina (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
when is the best time to plant tomatoes in the Kilmore area Victoria Australia
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10 Sep 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Read the notes here about growing tomatoes in Cool climate.
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10 Sep 17, Bru (Australia - temperate climate)
i live in Adelaide south, and sow tomato early September (i have a 6 Beefsteak and 12 Cherry in greenhouse now). I don't usually plant out seedlings till late November when they're a good 4 to 5 inches high. Having slightly colder soil where you are, i'd prob wait till early/mid December to plant seedlings.
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17 Aug 17, John C (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi folks, Looking for a seedless, or near seedless, tomato please. (My partner cannot physically handle the seeds but loves tomatoes.) Lots of people tell me they do exist (near seedless at least) but nobody I know has any clues on where to find them. I've looked in lots of catalogues but no luck. Any tips/leads would be greatly appreciated.
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25 Aug 17, Paul Kasten (Australia - temperate climate)
Oregon Star is a favourite variety of mine, developed in the US. It is a cross of a paste and a slicer, and produces big fruit that are seedless or nearly seedless through most of the season. Great as a slicer for raw use, but so meaty it also cooks down very nicely for sauce or canning. I don't recall the name, but I found a Canadian online nursery last year that shipped a pack of seeds to me in Melbourne for a very reasonable price.
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19 Aug 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Amish paste is another fleshy type of tomato.
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18 Aug 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Seems to be a few of these in the USA. Probably in aussie you would look for tomatoes for paste - like Roma, Super Roma and San Marzano. Best if you GOOGLED and have a look around for ones with more flesh than seeds.
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26 Aug 17, John C (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks folks. Importing seeds directly seems problematic because of bio-security issues. Tried Google & other engines and can find none of the USA varieties in Oz. + way too much contradictory info to be really useful (e.g. almost seedless to lots of seeds for the same type). Thought I'd try this forum. Thanks for the tips on the paste varieties. That provided a different focus for my searches.
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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