Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
									S	S
T											T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

S = Plant undercover in seed trays
T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings

Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

24 Nov 17, Maureen (Australia - temperate climate): Yes, doing that really works and I have been doing this all year. I also grow plants from tomato slices placed in seed raising mix. Wonderful results.
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03 Nov 17, (Australia - cool/mountain climate): Hi there, to tie up all my tomatoes etc I have used an old cotton/polyester sheet that I have torn into strips about 2cm wide. You get heaps of “ribbons “ and can even buy an old sheet from vinnies for $6. The polyester makes them last and they are soft on stems unlike twine and the like. Also old stockings are excellent! Cheers.
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06 Nov 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate): I have used old clothes sheets towels all my life. I'm now trying a couple of posts with wire mesh between them. Train the plant in and out of the wire mesh and can use twine etc to support them also. Saves having dozens of pieces of cloth.
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01 Nov 17, David (Australia - temperate climate): Hi I love tomatoes but don't have any luck growing them without white fly or aphids impregnating them. I've tried white oil but with no luck. Does someone out there have the solution as I love growing them and especially eating them. Cheers
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03 Nov 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Try a mix of LUX soap flakes. Mix 2 table spoons of flakes with 500mls of warm/hot water. Then mix with 5 liters of water and spray both sides of the leaves - do this every 4-5 days. Do the leaves curl up and not grow? Try growing in a different spot. .
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14 Oct 17, Hayley (Australia - temperate climate): Hello, is it too late to sow tomatoe seeds now (mid October)?
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16 Oct 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate): You could probably grow tomatoes all year round. Maybe better to plant some good strong seedlings - like about 6-9" tall. Next year plant a bit earlier. I transplanted some small seedlings out 2 days ago. If your soil is nice and fertile mulch around the plants and keep the water up to them.
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04 Oct 17, Jane (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Hello.Green shield beetles are attacking my tomatoes and sucking the goodness out if them.I have to throw them away. How can I stop this? Thankyou.
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05 Oct 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Look up the internet. Maybe a garlic and chilli mix.
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27 Sep 17, Daisy Brown (Australia - temperate climate): Hi guys, do we need to do plant successive crop for tomato?
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Showing 281 - 290 of 807 comments

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Replying to:

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

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Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

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