Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

28 Dec 21, Mary (Australia - temperate climate)
You probably need to shade it from the harsh sun. Give it a dose of Epsom salt and see what happens. It's not too late to get some new plants but this time put an umbrella to protect it from the harsh sun.
24 Nov 21, Dan (South Africa - Semi-arid climate)
Good morning sorry to bother you I just want to know about planting tomato in Capetown what is best time? thanks a lot (Gardenate says: Make sure that you select your zone at the top of the tomato page, then you can see which months are suitable)
06 Nov 21, Clara (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have good success with oxhearts and rouge de marmande. They fruit all through winter too and I'm more southerly than you. You can get these varieties in DT Brown seeds from Reject Shop for $2 a packet. Mine self seed after the first season and I'm about to harvest a pair of oxhearts weighing 300gms each. They don't seem to revert to wild tomato types when self seeding which a lot of other varieties do. Cherry toms are prolific fruiters and easy but a PITA to harvest and not useful for sandwiches. But perfect to toss into a salad. I prefer the larger types. I harvest the toms as soon as I get a small blush of pink/yellow on the skin and then they ripen perfectly inside without inviting pests. But you need to let them get the colouring enzymes going on the vine first in a small amount for this to work.
06 Nov 21, Clara (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I never use anything and get large crops. Maybe I am just exceptionally lucky? Who knows.Try tomato fruit bags. These are fine mesh bags you tie over the green fruit trusses that prevents insects from getting at them. If you can sew you can probably make a heap out of an old fine net curtain to save $$$ as they tend to be rather pricey to buy. Just a rectangular bag with a drawstring large enough to house the truss.
01 Nov 21, John Ellis (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Tomatoes grew well last season until whitefly arrived. I found that Pyrethrum spray only reduced the numbers for a week or two and then it was basically ineffective. Suggestions as to effective control?
04 Nov 21, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I basically only grow cherry tomatoes, they are fairly disease resistant. Bigger tomatoes the fly and grubs just feed on them especially when the warmer wet weather comes.
03 Sep 21, Pete (Australia - temperate climate)
I have just planted some bush beans, can someone tell me approx how high they grow? Cheers and thnks in advance
07 Sep 21, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
A question about beans in the tomato section. Beans (dwarf) about 300-400mm. Bush tomatoes 1m.
27 Aug 21, Anthony Jennings (USA - Zone 13b climate)
Last year I planted cherry tomatoes from seedlings in January. I saved some seeds. When and how should I plant the seeds to develop seedlings for the coming year and how do I plant the seeds?
01 Sep 21, (USA - Zone 6b climate)
Plant in a fine potting mix or similar soil (light and free draining) or a mixture of soil and potting mix about 1/4
Showing 81 - 90 of 811 comments

Further to my posts below. I have found this which I believe is the problem with my bunchy curly leaves on cherry tomatoes. It is called -Tomato yellow leaf curl virus. TYLCV. Department of Agriculture and Fisheries Qld In March 2006, tomato leaf curl disease was found in cherry tomato crops in the south and west periphery of Brisbane. The disease has been found in many crops, with infection levels ranging from 5 to 100 per cent of plants. Losses in severely affected crops have been very high and the disease is a major threat to tomato production. In April 2006, infected plants were also found around Bundaberg. By June 2007, the virus was present in the Lockyer Valley, Fassifern Valley, Esk, Caboolture and Redlands areas. Since 2009 it has become a serious production constraint around Bundaberg. In February 2011, it was found in backyard tomato plants in Mareeba on the Atherton Tablelands. Tomato leaf curl disease is caused by viruses in the Geminivirus family of plant viruses, and is spread by whiteflies. The virus causing this disease is tomato yellow leaf curl virus (TYLCV). This virus is distinct from tomato leaf curl Australia virus (TLCV), which occurs in the Northern Territory and at several locations on Cape York Peninsula. Silverleaf whitefly (Bemisia tabaci Biotype B) was first recorded in Australia in 1994, it is now a widespread pest in Queensland and Western Australia and could become a major pest in most irrigated agricultural areas of Australia. Silverleaf whitefly (SLW) is also known as poinsettia or sweetpotato whitefly and in USA literature it is now referred to as Bemisia argentifolii. SLW has a wide host range (over 500 species) of crops and weeds, and is difficult to control as it has developed resistance to conventional insecticides. Biotype Q was discovered recently in Queensland. There is also an Australian native species. These three biotypes are indistinquishable in the field.

- Mike

Please provide your email address if you are hoping for a reply


All comments are reviewed before displaying on the site, so your posting will not appear immediately

Gardenate App

Put GardenGrow in your pocket. Get our app for iPhone, iPad or Android to add your own plants and record your plantings and harvests

Planting Reminders

Join 60,000+ gardeners who already use GardenGrow and subscribe to the free GardenGrow planting reminders email newsletter.


Home | Vegetables and herbs to plant | Climate zones | About GardenGrow | Contact us | Privacy Policy

This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
We cannot help if you are overrun by giant slugs.