Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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10 Sep 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
HBP: I would think pouring boiling water would kill everything GOOD & BAD. There are microorganisms that convert humus into plant food and you have just killed them :( I wonder if this is the problem???
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09 Sep 09, Homebrewpig (Australia - temperate climate)
Has anyone heard of pouring boiling hot water in the area that is allocated for tomatoes, wait till it cools then plant your tomatoes to kill dieseases in the soil.? I never have any luck!
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05 Sep 09, Kate (Australia - temperate climate)
We have had cherry tomato plant self seed in the garden bed next to our worm farm. It is producing a lot of fruit but quite a lot of the the fruit is ripening when the tomatoes are still tiny (pea sized). Any thoughts on why this might be? I am a novice gardener without the greenest thumb - I should be happy that we're getting any fruit at all! :D
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04 Sep 09, David (Australia - temperate climate)
John, can you give more details on the "savage clip" please.
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13 Aug 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Another tip - split or half eaten tomatoes on the bush - just let them drop. Next year you will automatically have self sown seedlings.
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13 Aug 09, John (Australia - temperate climate)
Grown tomatoes for years. Last summer pruned / clipped quite savagely. Results amazing. 5 times the fruit and the more I trimmed the more fruit I got.
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09 Aug 09, margaret (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in the Dandenong ranges, victoria, I am inspired to raise seedlings of tomato rather than plant out seedlings from the nursery. It is August now, so, is this the time to plant the seeds for transplanting to garden in late September early October?
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08 Aug 09, Alison (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm ready to start my first vegie patch with beetroot, lettuce, carrots and tomatoes (applying companion gardening). Can anyone suggest a really good tomato? These so many varieties all boosting to be the best. Thanks!
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03 Aug 09, MuddyKnees (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Lat year I noticed an ad for growing tomatoes very prolifically (300% !!) by some "secret" method. My first thought was " there's hardly any real secrets in gardening.. or are there?" It seems the procedure involves the eventual removal of ALL leaves AFTER the fruit has set.. and strict pruning.. The seller claims that a tomato can get all the growth stimulus direct from the sun and that leaves just use up too much of the plants resources. I'm intrigued enough to try it this summer, if only to detrmine whether it is has any substance or is just a con. My reason for talking about it here is to hear if anyone else knows of this and has tried it? I intend to have two identical pots (size & soil) and grow a normal Daydream as a benchmark then apply this procedure to a second. I have always subscribed to the belief that " if something sounds too good to be true..etc.." but being a veggie gardener I'm always open to new ideas.. mine and others.. Nice if it works.
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02 Aug 09, Deborah (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I planted a tomato at the end of summer and have it covered with an individual green house affair. It is now huge and too large for the greenhouse. Can I plant it in the garden now? (I'm in Sydney) or should I leave it in the pot. It has no flowers but a few buds that dont come to anything.
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-- WOW -- I'm not sure HOW MUCH of each amendment (manure, bone meal, blood meal) you put in ... but it sounds like there is enough nutrition there for awhile. I am concerned about 2 things: 1. The initial acidity of the pine mulch. Tomatoes do like slightly acidic soil, but the initial acidity here could be too much. Pine mulch does however break down neutral and pine mulch offers several benefits for gardens, including weed suppression, moisture retention, and improved soil structure. 2. You need to ensure your 5 gallon buckets have a few large holes on the sides near the bottom - this is to prevent your roots from cooking. Even if your containers are in the shade (with the plant in the sun) those containers need aeration. I suggest at least 2 (and up to 6) 3" holes around the bottom sides of your container -- don't worry, after the initial soil spill, the soil will stay put even during watering. As far as continued fertilization, you could top dress with chicken manure -- that is add an inch or two to the top of the soil (top dressing) of chicken manure, and when you water this will go into the soil. Perhaps monthly, maybe more if the plants are growing fast.... I might however hold off for the first couple of months (this really depends on HOW much of each amendment you added -- for example, half a 5 gallon bucket of chicken manure, opposed to several handfuls) -- additionally, when the plants are really small... they don't intake that much nutrition , but as they grow -- they really use up the nutrition fast (think a 5 year old boy compared to a teenager)

- Celeste Archer

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