Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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15 Feb 10, Marissa (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi everyone I have 8 tomatoe plants and experiencing a lot of leaves wilting, fruit rotting at the bottom but the top half is still green plus little black flying insects attacking it and laying eggs in it so when I cut a tomato in half it has maggts inside. Can anyone tell me what to do?
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08 Feb 10, Claudia (Australia - temperate climate)
My tomato leaves are yellowing and dying off but I still have plenty of fruit which has been ripening daily. I used the Diggers seeds for the first time and have Tigerella & Tommy Toe Reds. They are in old steel caged plastic water tanks just over 1 meter squared. If anyone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it as this is my first time at planting & want to maintain fruiting as long as I can. Thanks
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25 May 12, malcolm (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
i have the same trouble i donte know the answer but i have done some reaserch its lack of irion or to cold i have one tomatoe out of 4 plants with all plenty of fruit i have just saulfited iron for grass try that godd luck ps sorry about the spelling
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05 Feb 10, Lyndall lightbody (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi lyndall here again still serching for a particular reason my tomato flowers are falling off and not baring any fruit! It's not from too much water and they are very well drained??
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03 Feb 10, Homebrewpig (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Well I done the experiment of putting boiling water in the area that the tomatoes where planted then added organic fert. and the results were great. First time I got good tomatoes.
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29 Jan 10, DelBoy (Australia - temperate climate)
I've had trouble with my tomatoes too this year. Last year I had 3 x cherry and 3 x Roma plants which all gave me loads (too many) tomatoes. This year I planted 3 x cherry and 1 x Roma (in a different section of my garden). Two of the cherry plants gave me a handful each of tomatoes and grew to maybe 15cm in height. The Roma is still producing huge tomatoes but is only about 40cm tall. The last cherry plant is about 1.4m tall and still producing flowers and delicious fruit. I've treated all plants equally well, feeding them and watering them all equally. They all get equal sun. The only difference? The small cherry plants came from Bunnings and the other 2 came from K-Mart!
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26 Jan 10, Chris (Australia - temperate climate)
Lyndall, Flowers not producing fruit could be due to too much water. with regard to the height, last year I let all the side shoots grow and that stopped vertical growth compared to this year where I have religiously trimmed out any shoots from the leaf joints and my plants which were planted 23 November are between 1 and 1.4 metres high. My theory is that if you let the side shoots grow a bit it will stop trying to grow vertical because the plant needs to keep flowering and the only way to flower is to produce new growth. This growth comes from the main stems or new stems nearer the bottom of the plant. I have 4 plants so am going to let to bush out more and keep 2 growing vertical. If you let the plant grow up through the wire the possums will do the trimming for you.
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24 Jan 10, Barb (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Lyndall, don't worry, your tomatoes will work out what space they have - probably fall over or grow sideways a bit, but that's OK they don't have to grow upwards all the time. Marina, wilt is apparently exacerbated by poor drainage, so check if your soil is too 'heavy' and mix in compost or 'no-dig' garden ingredients to help the soil drainage if need be. Better not to 'drench' the soil - soil is full of microbes both good and bad, so help your soil with worm-wee, compost or even seaweed/fish emulsion will helps the good guys fight the bad guys for you. Drying your stakes in sunlight should kill off any fungus you don't want. I turn my stakes over each time I use them, so whatever came from last crop's soil is now up the air.
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24 Jan 10, Barb (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
HI Alison, A good aid for tomatoes is to spray the plant with a weak solution of Seasol (or similar seaweed product) which feeds the plant through the leaves, and also dissuades tomato russet mite. Also strengthen the plants by adding a good quality compost and organic fertilisers like fish emulsion, worm-farm liquid, etc. All these give the plant more resilience to diseases and pests. Don't give up!
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18 Jan 10, Lyndall (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have planted roma tomatoes, they started to flower at about 40cm high and are now about 1m tall but each time they flower the flower soon dies and drops off and no fruit?? Im wondering what is doing this?? I also now need to know is there a tomato plant that grows no taller than 1m because i have them in a built up vege patch which is completley caged in thanx to the possum problem I have!! So my tomato plants have now hit the top of the cage with no where to go and no fruit, which is really frustrating! Do i cut them right back or start again with a completley different type?? Hope to get some help soon Lyndall
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Showing 711 - 720 of 819 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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