Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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11 Apr 11, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
You can over feed your plants but that usually won't kill them. For the wilting, the reason being is either it is getting too much sun and not enough water or justis not in any sun at all and is being over watered. Tomatoes like part shade but most sun and that's what I have found that works best.
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19 Mar 11, THOMAS (Australia - temperate climate)
Forget the Triffids. Cherry tomatoes will engulf the world. Not one corner of my 3 acres has escaped being colonised this year & I only had them in my vegetable patch last year. Harvesting bucket loads & making sauce but have to beat the field mice to them. Thomas
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17 Mar 11, Elisha (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have planted some tomato plants about 3 weeks ago in a supposed to be organic soil I got trucked in. Which as mill mud a sugar cane by product, and other goodies in it. I mixed dolomite, dynmatic lifter in the soil then planted. I am using sugar cane mulch and have liquid fertislied them with seasol and healthy earth. My tomatoes have now started to wilt. I don't believe its a fungus or a disease as when I cut the stems it looks healthy and green. I had 10 plants and now only have around 4 standing strong. Any suggestions what is going on? Oh I did fertilise them just before wilting as we have had a heap of rain recently with potash and blood and bone. Have I maybe over feed them. I didn't think that was possible.
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17 Mar 11, Liz (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Elisha, your seedlings might have 'damping off' disease. This is caused by too much water staying round the roots allowing a fungus to grow on the roots. If the plants don't improve in a day or so, it would be best to remove them and start again. Make sure that your soil is well drained.
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22 Aug 11, Deborah (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Damping off can be avoided by spraying seedlings every few days with chamomile tea, which kills the fungus which causes the damage. Also move mulch back a bit from the stem of the seedling to improve ventilation.
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04 Mar 11, KEVIN HERON (Australia - temperate climate)
HI COL, YOU HAVE HAD A LOT OF RAIN? DO YOU FERTILIZE / WHAT TYPE OF TOMATO ARE YOU GROWING REGARDS KEV
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01 Mar 11, Col (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
In my current crop of tomatoes which are about 8 weeks old and 400mm high, three of the fifteen have wilted badly and are not recovering after thhee days. They are under 50% shade cloth due to the cureent hot weather and are watered at ground level every 36 hours. I have planted at the other end of the garden from last year, about 2.4 metres away. Any suggestions please! Col
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17 Nov 11, Deborah (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I agree, not enough water. Early morning and late afternoon.
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16 Mar 11, jade (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
mine are going great, not under any shade, in bris. But get watered at least twice a day and also any time it rains - So much rain, but with good drainage I don't think it can be overdone.
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26 Feb 11, Karl (Australia - temperate climate)
Banana tea...why didn't I think of that? Thanks for the tip!
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Showing 631 - 640 of 817 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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