Your comments and tips

24 Jan 15, Derek (Australia - temperate climate)

Charles L, Just wondering how the Siberian , variety went and where you got them from ?

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29 Jan 13, Charles L (Australia - temperate climate)

Thanks for the tips! Couldn't find sub arctic here....but found a local supplier for Siberian tomatoes which sounds similar enough, I'll give them a go. Still looking for Tigerella in Perth. Found something called Mr. Stripey which looks identical and will see if they handle the winter too.

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11 May 13, Derek (Australia - temperate climate)

I live in Perth and I grow a variety called Taste Sensation , we still have some in the freezer from the last crop ,which grew through the summer and now in May we have another bumper crop coming along they are a very heavy cropping, early fruiting variety and so much flavor, the fruits are of a medium size, brought them my local nursery as seedlings.

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23 Feb 13, Tracey (Australia - temperate climate)

Tigerella is available from the Diggers Club - they mail order seed and plants (but not sure about tomato plants) all over Oz. You could try Oregon Spring from Rangeview seed (I think it's a better flavour and stronger grower than Tigerella.

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25 Dec 12, rob (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)

have you had any experience with siberrian tomatoes?

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01 Feb 17, Karen (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)

I live on the North Shore, Auckland and have done container growing for several years now, This is the third year of growing tomatoes on a large scale - predominantly determinate varieties. I source my seeds from Kings Seeds who supply a determinate variety called Sub Arctic Plenty which I have experimented with variable results. All plants raised indoors, gently hardened off then potted out into 15L tubs. I use 50/50 new compost/previously used container soil from a non-tomato pot mixed well with added slow release fertiliser and half a cup of powdered eggshell.. The top is mulched with straw and 4 marigolds to attract the bees. They also need a 5ft stake. Generally the plants like the morning and late sun and need shade from the glaring hot midday temperatures. Each year I am growing them earlier to avoid the heat of summer. The pots on the decking facing North fully exposed struggled, the pots that were shaded midday grew much better. Next year I plan to plant out in July/August and see how they get on then. They have a mild taste, personally I prefer the richer flavours of the dark toms but they are good for dehydrating. I also found that they prefer dryer soil than some of my other varieties. I liquid feed them once a week using a litre of water. Don't let them stand in trays, they need full drainage. Any run off from the trays I use on something else (the pineapple sage is very grateful). Spay every part of the plant with a brew of bicarsoda to pre-empt and control powdery mildew weekly. Please let me know if you want any other info - happy to share. Let me know how you get on.

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15 May 17, Derek (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)

Hi. Thanks for the info which was informative. I tried last year to grow tomatoes and failed miserably. The bottom of the fruit was black and I have been advised this was overwatering and lack of calcium. They were in 15L pots outside and exposed to a fairly windy area. This year I have a geeenhouse and a bit more knowledge thanks to the likes of you:). I am just deciding what to grow in the greenhouse and in my small vege patch but definately have tomatoes on the list a bit later in the year, although I might try growing some now and keep in the greenhouse. Appreciate your comments and advice thanks. I live in Somerville near Howick. Cheers Derek

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23 Nov 19, Lee (New Zealand - temperate climate)

Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

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21 Dec 12, Allen Lee (Australia - temperate climate)

Mulching of tomatoes is always a good practice and if you are short on stakes and have palm trees handy cut off one palm leaf strip off leaves use rib as stake replace later if needed. The reason for the chewed tomato underside are snails and during the night have a great feast and by the time you see them they are hidding on a full stomAch of tomatoes. The Slater isn't the problem he's just visitor enjoying the works of the snail and slugs. If the hole is a single small dot could be fruit fly if larger could be white cabbage moth.

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21 Dec 12, allen lee (Australia - temperate climate)

The grubs you have in your tomatoes are fruit fly. There are few remedies one is organic it has both male& female attracting lure in jar.the other has a male trap and there is female attraction lure which you paint on. A leading hardware store sell net bags which I find useful tied around forming bunches it allow air in stops birds pecking them(close weave) and prevents some flies getting to tomatoes and can be left to ripen. You can use chemical spray but must take care check label instruction wear protective clothing and check withholding period.

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