Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
									S	S
T											T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

S = Plant undercover in seed trays
T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings

Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

14 Jan 14, karen johnson (Australia - temperate climate): is it too late to plant tomatoes from seeds ?
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29 Dec 13, Melanie (Australia - arid climate): Hi I planted Zucchini, Cucumber and Tomatoes in September, and they don't seem to be getting any higher than 40cm...they are fruiting, but I find it unusual that they are not higher now...Should I rip these out, and start again.
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28 Dec 13, Julie (Australia - temperate climate): Sam, We are borderline cool to temperate. We find that Roma will be later than cherry tomato type or beefsteak type. Try some Powerfeed Red for vegetables and also some potash to boost growth and flowering.
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21 Dec 13, Andrew (Australia - temperate climate): I read somewhere, but I can't locate the source, that over fertilising produces lush foliage but inhibits flowering. Have you been smashing the fertiliser? That includes Seasol and Powerfeed too. Do a little research on nutrient needs for tomatoes. I do know that as they begin to fruit they benefit from a potash rich dressing.
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13 Dec 13, Ian hansen (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Types tomatoes to grow in summer in sub tropical climate
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13 Dec 13, Sam (Australia - temperate climate): I'm growing roma tomatoes. They are a determinate variety. I kept them in pots for a bit too long before transplanting them. They were still relatively small when they went into the garden. Shortly after transplanting the plants flowered. Now I have one or two small fruit setting on each plant. I will be very disappointed if I only get 2 fruit per plant, so I am thinking of cutting these fruit off, and hoping the plants grow bigger before flowering again. Hopefully next time round I get more fruit. Would this work?
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13 Nov 13, Coral (Australia - sub-tropical climate): Our tomatoes have grown tall, but very few flowers . Have you any advice?
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19 Dec 13, Roachelle (Australia - temperate climate): Im having the same problem... i have very healthy looking plants .. lots of leaves etc... but hardly any flowers... Ive only gotten 1 fruit off so far. what have i done wrong?
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02 Jan 14, Sarah (Australia - temperate climate): The tomatoes grow little stems in the corners if other stems, they take much of the nutrients to grow and slow the fruit. If they look like they're not going to fruit, just snap them off. My tomato plants popped up out of nowhere in my dad's yard (presumably a birds dinner one night) so we moved them to my house. When he told me about these little stems I wasn't sure, but I have 3 plants, 2 of which I removed these from and they are fruiting much more efficiently than the one I left alone.
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07 Feb 16, Penny (Australia - temperate climate): Too tall and leafy usually means too much nitrogen (i.e. richness, fertility). See later comments re ash, minerals etc.
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-- WOW -- I'm not sure HOW MUCH of each amendment (manure, bone meal, blood meal) you put in ... but it sounds like there is enough nutrition there for awhile. I am concerned about 2 things: 1. The initial acidity of the pine mulch. Tomatoes do like slightly acidic soil, but the initial acidity here could be too much. Pine mulch does however break down neutral and pine mulch offers several benefits for gardens, including weed suppression, moisture retention, and improved soil structure. 2. You need to ensure your 5 gallon buckets have a few large holes on the sides near the bottom - this is to prevent your roots from cooking. Even if your containers are in the shade (with the plant in the sun) those containers need aeration. I suggest at least 2 (and up to 6) 3" holes around the bottom sides of your container -- don't worry, after the initial soil spill, the soil will stay put even during watering. As far as continued fertilization, you could top dress with chicken manure -- that is add an inch or two to the top of the soil (top dressing) of chicken manure, and when you water this will go into the soil. Perhaps monthly, maybe more if the plants are growing fast.... I might however hold off for the first couple of months (this really depends on HOW much of each amendment you added -- for example, half a 5 gallon bucket of chicken manure, opposed to several handfuls) -- additionally, when the plants are really small... they don't intake that much nutrition , but as they grow -- they really use up the nutrition fast (think a 5 year old boy compared to a teenager)

- Celeste Archer

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Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

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Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

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