Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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21 Apr 15, Alan c (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Hi .Roma normally put out a lot of laterals. If they are all left on the vine not much will ripen quickly as the plant makes more trusses. To ripen I pinch most if not all of the new laterals off , the plant put energy into ripening the green tomatoes . A week or so later new laterals appear with more flowers etc. I do this with all indeterminate plants to make them ripen when I want them to .
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08 Apr 15, naymi (Australia - temperate climate)
I live in Sydney and currently have a thriving tomato plant still producing tomatoes. With the temperatures dropping, I want to know what to do with the plant. Do I just let it slowly die? Will it actually die in winter temps in Sydney? (not sure if we get actual 'frost') Thanks :)
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10 Apr 15, Mikaela (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Naymi, If your plants still have little green tomatoes, you can dig up the whole plant (including the root) and hang it upside down in a dry covered area. Some (not all, unfortunately) of the green tomatoes will still ripen over a few weeks. Here's a vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtN9Ud17tjM (watch out for rot as the rains have picked up.) Also, tomatoes deplete nitrogen, so I like to plant a pea/bean over winter to recharge the soil. I just plop a bean seed in when I dig up my tomato plant. In contrast, let the nitro-fixer stay in place and till the dying plant into the soil so it can get all the benefits as it composts in place.
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29 Mar 15, Neil (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, I have established my first veggie garden and have just won the war with caterpillars attacking my tomatoe plants by spaying them with tablespoon molasses and a teaspoon of dish liquid mixed with a litre of water and spayed on. However I am writing to ask about whether tomatoes need to planted fresh each year or can a tomatoes bush flower and fruit year after year. Any thoughts would be very appreciated. Many thanks.
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30 Mar 15, tomato expert qld (Australia - tropical climate)
tomato bushes will produce for approx 3 to 4 months.save your seeds for replants.
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23 Mar 15, Edie (USA - Zone 7b climate)
What is the best tomato plant and also bush tomato plant for my Zone 7b?
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16 Feb 16, Carrie B. (USA - Zone 7b climate)
There is a seed supplier specializing in heirloom in our zone. Southern Exposure Seed Exchange. Even if you don't buy seed the website and catalog are great resources.
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17 Mar 15, wozza (Australia - tropical climate)
I live near Cairns and my Tomatoes have lots flowers n no fruit .I even got my self a bee hive so I have bees .BUT STILL no fruit .Lots flowers but no Fruit .Is it still to hot ?????.Temp around 32 too 34 through the day n lots Humitity.Cheers
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30 Mar 15, tomato expert qld (Australia - tropical climate)
European bees (if thats what you have in your hive) wont visit tomato flowers.the only bes i know that do are the blue banded native bees which are approx the same size as euro bees.blue banded bees are solitary bees.also a few native stingless bees will visit tomato flower but they are fussy and will only visit high pollen producing tomatoes plant strains. again,tomato plants are self pollinators and dont require bees etc for the pollination of flowers..
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27 Mar 15, tomato expert qld (Australia - tropical climate)
bees are not needed for pollination as tomatoes are self pollinating.your problem is the temps are too high.wait till the end of April as i do every year and you will have fruits in no time.im in cairns.
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Showing 451 - 460 of 811 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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