Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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21 Apr 17, Jack (Australia - temperate climate)
Plants are not likely to transplant this late in the season. I suggest you make some Green Tomato Pickles with them and start early next season.
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15 Apr 17, gill (Australia - temperate climate)
Where can I purchase reisetomate seeds please? Will they grow in Canberra?
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15 Apr 17, John (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Tomato 'Reisetomate' should grow in Canberra. Get your seeds started indoors ready for planting out in late october and you should be able to grow a good crop of this unusual tomato.
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15 Apr 17, Jack (Australia - temperate climate)
'Reistomate' seed is available from Diggers Seeds on the Mornington Peninsula South-east of melbourne
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13 Apr 17, Carmen cantone (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
I live in wallan Victoria. I have my tomatoe seeds. Not sure what month I should put the seeds in the ground outside Can I put them in a polystyrene container first and cover them with a glass lid till their germinate. If so what month should I start this
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14 Apr 17, Brian (Australia - temperate climate)
Carmen I'm a bit north/east of you. I wait till the last week of August usually and mine do well. Tomatoes are prone to damage by frost and severe cold. planting in August/September is best, You still may need to protect them with a cover (clear plastic is what I use) overnight until the last of the frosts.
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14 Apr 17, Giovanni (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Despite the plants you see in the nurseries and shops from August, tomatoes will not do well until late October and into November. The sunny Spring days are enjoyable but the soil needs to warm up to about 15-17 degrees before tomatoes will do well. You could start seedlings off inside in late August using the cells of egg cartons or as you suggest, in a polystyrene container with a piece of glass over it. The edge cutouts on the container will provide ventilation. Ensure the seedlings don't 'cook' through the glass by covering with a piece of old net curtain or a leafy small branch on a bright day.
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10 Apr 17, Desmond thomas thomas Curnow (Australia - temperate climate)
Why as soon as you start to pick or before the plants get mottled leaves and die .getting few or no tomatoes
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11 Apr 17, gaz (Australia - temperate climate)
You maybe need a bit of the insect repellent,or Derris dust but that will kill everything,the thing I cant remember is puperon or somthing,it is a good insecticide,but wait a day or 2 before eating any produce,,.
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11 Apr 17, Jo (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
It sounds like you have a soil born virus disease. Soil hygiene through crop rotation is very important for tomatoes. Only plant tomatoes in the same spot after three years, If you are a smoker, use gloves as the viruses that affect tobacco also affect tomatoes. Selecting wilt resistant varieties will also help. destroy all affected plants or put them in the garbage bin.
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Showing 331 - 340 of 809 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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