Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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02 Jul 23, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Go to australian seed website and read about them - they just set fruit at lower temperatures, otherwise grow much the same as other toms. Better to grow just one bush in a 2-3' pot.
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19 Feb 23, Belinda (Australia - temperate climate)
Right now my tomatoes are very big and look almost successful however they arn't turning red?! A few of them have but the rest are just happy sitting in greenville for quite some time. I would love some help! I planted around october from memory. Its they are beefsteaks. Thank you so much for your help. I would love to show my 7 year old that we can do this!
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27 Feb 23, Judy (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Belinda, when I grew tomatoes in Armidale NSW, I used to pick them just as they started to turn, the put them somewhere dark and ripen them that way. Worked every time. Also didn't have to worry as much about birds and critters!
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20 Feb 23, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
They do take a while to ripen.
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02 Jan 23, Irma (USA - Zone 9b climate)
I always gets my seeds From Burpee’s online. They have always yielded great amount of tomatoes.
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14 Dec 22, DENNIS (USA - Zone 10a climate)
I'm looking for a large juicy tomato to just plain eat whole. Looking for a good producer. Can't seem to find a recommendation for my area!
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18 Dec 22, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Google big tomato varieties. Most crops will grow from cold weather to hot weather, just have to plant at the right time of year for your area.
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25 Aug 22, Hannah (Canada - Zone 3b Temperate Warm Summer climate)
I have grow small tomatoes plant about three inches inside pot , now the plant grow about two feet tall n have a lot of tomatoes . I know the plant will die in winter . My question is will it grows back next year spring n summer ? Should I throw away the old plant n grow from small tomatoes plant every year ? Please advice .
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28 Aug 22, Philip Morton (Australia - temperate climate)
Let it die off and start anew. Even indeterminate tomatoes are annual and not perrenial. It could survive in a warm sheltered area but you will very likely be disappointed with a new season crop. Disease is likely to take hold of the plant as well causing further stress.
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03 Jun 22, Siva Sutendra (Canada - Zone 2b Sub-Arctic climate)
I live in Yellowknife, nwt, Canada. I have arctic tomato plants from seeding and grown to about 2 to 3 ft tall. When can I plant them in ground? What is the min temperature during night. Currently, the night temp is about 5c and daytime is 17c.. Thanks Siva
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Showing 21 - 30 of 791 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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