Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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31 Jul 18, Mike L (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Don't really know what a double skinned tunnel house is - a hot house?? I have no idea what Defiant VF2/PHR tomatoes are. I suggest you go to NZ cool/mountain climate zone - tomatoes and read the whole article. It is there if you read it - it is pretty simple - it says plant seeds (S) in Oct Nov - and (T) transplant seedlings in Dec Jan.
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23 Jun 18, Mike Ktori (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
We have recently moved from the Derwent Valley in Tasmania to Sandstone Point in Queensland. We formally had to plant our tomatoes under glass and never succeeded in having fruit in time for Christmas.Now we have room for a few raised beds whereas we had acreage in the valley; I'm wondering if, in this warmer climate, I can have tomatoes year round.
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28 Jun 18, Mike L (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
You can grow all year round. Summer can become a but hot and very wet (as in inches of rain in hours) -use mulch around the plants. Best to grow a crop from late Feb for a winter picking crop and plant in mid August for crop into summer. Or even plant a succession crop each time also - 4-6 weeks between each planting. Only need 2-4 plants each time. .
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17 Jun 18, Jane (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have sown various and different tomato seeds (climbing and other) trays in the greenhouse and now they are seedlings. 1. How big must they be before I plant them out(sown 25/5/18) and 2. How can I stop bugs/insects from attacking/destroying the tomatoes? 3.I want to put up a frame and netting/shade cloth all around but my concern is that if I do so then how to the tomatoes get pollinated if the bees can't get to them (and other plants)? :( Thanks.
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18 Jun 18, Mike Logan (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Use derris dust or some other home made organic spray - look on the internet. Plant as soon as they have a few true leaves. They grow better in the ground than in a pot. Tomatoes are self pollinating - by the wind - or give them a gentle shake. Google about this if you like. Try Greenpatch Organic for vegetable netting 3.5 and 6m wide $4 and $7.50 by the meter. We are going into cool/cold weather so next time plant earlier (Feb- March) or leave it until spring time.
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02 Sep 18, Jane (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Mike Logan - I forgot to say - thanks for yr advice last June.
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11 Jun 18, Phillip (South Africa - Dry summer sub-tropical climate)
I have a field and considering to plant Tomatoes and green pepper Limpopo province NZHELELE TO BE SPECIFIC.Is it the right time for me to start now?
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12 May 18, Penny (Australia - tropical climate)
My tomato seedlings keep shrivelling up and dying, they grow really well and then one day they justshrivel up. When I look just below the soil they seem to have a brown part on the stem, almost like it has rotted? Someone suggested it was some type of worm?
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14 May 18, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Could be wilt. Try the internet.
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18 Apr 18, Lyn (Australia - temperate climate)
When do I transplant my tomatoe plants I have started germiating my seeds & have little plants already living under my pergola I live in south west of sydney nsw & our winter is near (we had a long summer) Do I plant them in a bigger pot as they are in a cut down soft drink bottle 1.5l with holes in the bottom at the moment or do I wait til aug. to transplant outdoors into my above ground vegie planters? Tomatoes are Alans early red & Cherokee purple would like to try more types any ideas?
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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