Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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18 Feb 19, Mary Doughty (USA - Zone 7a climate)
I'm having problems with grub's in my yard and garden. Has anyone ever used a spray called milky spore. If any one has how long does it take to get rid of them. The moels are reeking havock on everything because of them. Dogs digging after the moels is a completely different story and problem. Any advice would be appreciated thank you.
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08 Jun 20, Ryan Riendeau (USA - Zone 10a climate)
Earth-friendly beneficial nematodes seek out and kill grubs and other soil-inhabiting insects. They come on a sponge (invisible to naked eye) that you soak in water, put in a sprayer and spray your dirt or lawn. They will multiply over time and continue to kill grubs You can buy them online or at your local nursery.
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16 Feb 19, Peter (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
my roma tomatoes have got a big brown spot on the very end just as it starts to show colour, what would you say that is ?
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19 Feb 19, Carmen J. (Australia - temperate climate)
Looks like is lacking calcium, normally we put fertilizer but we forget to put calcium, get some dolomite or some rock dust.
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25 Jun 19, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Use Epsom salt - a teaspoon in the hole at planting and even sprinkle another on top of the soil a few weeks later.
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18 Feb 19, mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Blossom end rot by the sounds of it. Buy some Epsom Salts and put in your garden - from supermarkets. Couple of $$ for 1 kg.
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20 Aug 19, Marie B (Australia - temperate climate)
Epsom salt is magnesium sulfate and doesn’t address the lack of calcium. For this coming spring you can buy calcium at Bunnings or your nursery but if you add finely crushed eggshells in your soil and let it degrade over the winter months you will not have to buy calcium again. Boiled eggs water and fish bones buried in soil work wonders against blossom end rot.
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28 Dec 18, stephen musgrave (Australia - temperate climate)
tomatoes look healthy have plenty leafs but not many fruit
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05 Jan 19, Mike Logan (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Maybe too much N. Depends how tall they are now.
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11 Dec 18, Peter Smith (Australia - temperate climate)
Growing tomatoes for years now and keep getting small holes like a grub mark as the fruit is rippening and then goes rotten what treatment if any can be used
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Showing 211 - 220 of 807 comments
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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