Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan	Feb	Mar	Apr	May	Jun	Jul	Aug	Sep	Oct	Nov	Dec
									S	S
T											T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

S = Plant undercover in seed trays
T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings

Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 61°F and 95°F. (Show °C/cm)
Space plants: 16 - 24 inches apart
Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

19 Sep 19, Wendy Perry (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate): Please what is a good all rounder tomato to grow in a Glass house in Alexandra, Central Otago? Thank you.
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02 Nov 19, Michelle (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate): I live in Omarama & do very well with Sweet 100 & Money Maker in my tunnel house, just be aware of late frosts & cover. Use plenty of tomato fertilizer & a good all round compost & potting mix.
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25 Sep 19, Anon (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate): Go to a nz seed selling website and compare different tomato types. Then pick one or two and try them. Or go to Bunnings or a nursery and ask.
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14 Sep 19, Allan Clarke (Australia - temperate climate): If you freeze tomatoes, then thaw them out, they go all soggy, I believe.
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31 Jul 19, Yvette Botha (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate): Which variety tomato will grow best in the Free State
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10 Dec 19, Chris Labuschagne (South Africa - Summer rainfall climate): I like to plant Money maker in Pretoria. Ox heart is a traditional variety but it has very low resistance to insects and pests. Be on the lookout for mildew and others as well as bottom end rot. Plan a preventative program. I am using drip irrigation instead of over head.
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28 Jul 19, Jameson Ngcobo (South Africa - Humid sub-tropical climate): To treat tomatoes from pets like aphids and red spider. Red spider can finish your plant without even noticing them because they are very small. Your tomatoe leaves becomes yellow and the whole plant ends up dying. Potatoes also have the same problem. You may think they are getting ready. Just use Oleum. It is very good.
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22 Jul 19, Gerald Kent (USA - Zone 10a climate): What is the best tasting tomato to grow in zone 10a in Westlake Village California, area code 91361
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10 Aug 20, Gina (USA - Zone 10b climate): we had great success growing san marzano (redorta) tomatoes... great for homemade pasta sauces!
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18 Jul 20, Jessica (USA - Zone 10a climate): The best tasting tomato depends on what you value in a tomato. There are thousands of tomato varieties and you just need to find one that you like. I suggest you start with indeterminate heirlooms first, unless you a beginner gardener, then I would go with Hybrids. Good luck with your harvests.
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I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

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Keep your garden growing - see what to plant right now

Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

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