Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

05 Jul 08, Glenda Bannan (Australia - tropical climate)
Any one tried growing tomatoes all year round in a tropical climate using a raised garden that does get shade during our hottest part of day???
15 Jul 08, Dianne (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Damian I think you will find that brown patch is blossom end rot which is caused by uneven watering.
27 Jul 08, Bobby (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi, I want to make homemade chutney using good tomatoes. When are they in season in Melbourne/Victoria please?
28 Jul 08, wayne (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Last year my tomatoes started really good. Then the foliage seemed to turn black. We didn't have a frost. I didn't get any fruit at all.
24 Aug 08, gareth (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
i have just planted 4 different types of tomatoes roma hybrids big red should i put chook poo on them and what other fertilisers and which is the highest yielder
24 Aug 08, Liz (New Zealand - temperate climate)
Gareth, you can use chook poo but it is very strong and can damage plants if used fresh. Make a 'tea' with it by putting in a bucket of water and leaving it for a few weeks or else use chook poo mixed with compost and broken down.
05 Sep 08, john (Australia - temperate climate)
i have found . if i get some electrical wore. take off plastic coating... then get individual strands of copper wire, and cut to about 2 inches long. then force 1 of these thru each tomato plant at the base .. it gives some protection against disease, but wouldnt be prctical for commercial growers, just home gardeners
15 Sep 08, Steve (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, I've been planting tomatoes for the last 2 years with success. However, last years fruit were a bit powdery. Any tips on how to stop that? The only thing i add to the soil is compost and occasionally soluble plant food. thanks
17 Sep 08, gareth (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Steve: it could be that the soil has been drained of its nutrients because tomatos take huge amounts of nutritions perhaps put some beans in the soil as bean put nutrients into the soil
02 Oct 08, SONYA JONES (Australia - tropical climate)
I didn't have much luck with tomatoes this year. They just seem to wilt and die. I can't see any evidence of pest or disease.
Showing 11 - 20 of 791 comments

I think you might have blossom end rot, and root rot mixed up. Blossom end rot occurs on the base of the tomato, and is caused by a lack of calcium (usually -- it could be other things that cause the calcium to be unavailable - PH, lack of water etc.). Blossom end rot causes the tomato to look deformed. Calcium added to the soil at the time of planting is usually adequate to ensure this does not happen. The calcium really needs to be added EARLY in the growing stages. You could also use egg shells -- I would grind/smash up the shells pretty good then work them into the soil of the planting hole; better yet, enrich with egg shells over the winter and early spring in anticipation of future planting. Root rot usually occurs when water sits around the roots of a plant for long periods of time -- bad drainage, excess watering, soil that holds too much water (which is really drainage). If you have proper aeration this usually doesn't happen since the air flow will whisk away excess moisture (provided it isn't a swamp at the roots). Try to create updrafts in your pots -- you want water drainage holes that do double duty -- let the water run off and allow air in. I find that holes at the SIDE BOTTOM of the pot, rather than directly under the pot, work well. It may seem like a hole at the side of the pot will let the soil out -- but pretty much after the first watering this stops happening -- and once the roots take hold it certainly does not happen. No need for drainage material (stones etc.) -- just use soil/compost top to bottom -- expect soil to come out at first when filling the pot -- after that you should be fine. I make my holes rather large -- on a BIG pot these holes are about 3inches (circular). Roots of plants really like air (maybe not direct exposure) but they certainly like the occasional breeze through the soil. Face the hole on the shady side of the pot for a cooling updraft in hot weather.

- Celeste Archer

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