Growing Tomato

Lycopersicon esculentum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
                  S S  
T                     T

(Best months for growing Tomato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • S = Plant undercover in seed trays
  • T = Plant out (transplant) seedlings
  • Grow in seed trays, and plant out in 4-6 weeks. Sow seed at a depth approximately three times the diameter of the seed. Best planted at soil temperatures between 16°C and 35°C. (Show °F/in)
  • Space plants: 40 - 60 cm apart
  • Harvest in 8-17 weeks.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Asparagus, Chervil,Carrot, Celery, Chives, Parsley, Marigold, Basil
  • Avoid growing close to: Rosemary, Potatoes, Fennel, Cucumber

Your comments and tips

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06 Nov 21, Clara (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I have good success with oxhearts and rouge de marmande. They fruit all through winter too and I'm more southerly than you. You can get these varieties in DT Brown seeds from Reject Shop for $2 a packet. Mine self seed after the first season and I'm about to harvest a pair of oxhearts weighing 300gms each. They don't seem to revert to wild tomato types when self seeding which a lot of other varieties do. Cherry toms are prolific fruiters and easy but a PITA to harvest and not useful for sandwiches. But perfect to toss into a salad. I prefer the larger types. I harvest the toms as soon as I get a small blush of pink/yellow on the skin and then they ripen perfectly inside without inviting pests. But you need to let them get the colouring enzymes going on the vine first in a small amount for this to work.
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06 Nov 21, Clara (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I never use anything and get large crops. Maybe I am just exceptionally lucky? Who knows.Try tomato fruit bags. These are fine mesh bags you tie over the green fruit trusses that prevents insects from getting at them. If you can sew you can probably make a heap out of an old fine net curtain to save $$$ as they tend to be rather pricey to buy. Just a rectangular bag with a drawstring large enough to house the truss.
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01 Nov 21, John Ellis (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Tomatoes grew well last season until whitefly arrived. I found that Pyrethrum spray only reduced the numbers for a week or two and then it was basically ineffective. Suggestions as to effective control?
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04 Nov 21, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
I basically only grow cherry tomatoes, they are fairly disease resistant. Bigger tomatoes the fly and grubs just feed on them especially when the warmer wet weather comes.
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03 Sep 21, Pete (Australia - temperate climate)
I have just planted some bush beans, can someone tell me approx how high they grow? Cheers and thnks in advance
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07 Sep 21, (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
A question about beans in the tomato section. Beans (dwarf) about 300-400mm. Bush tomatoes 1m.
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27 Aug 21, Anthony Jennings (USA - Zone 13b climate)
Last year I planted cherry tomatoes from seedlings in January. I saved some seeds. When and how should I plant the seeds to develop seedlings for the coming year and how do I plant the seeds?
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01 Sep 21, (USA - Zone 6b climate)
Plant in a fine potting mix or similar soil (light and free draining) or a mixture of soil and potting mix about 1/4
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09 Aug 21, Lonnie quick (USA - Zone 9a climate)
Plants are growing great but not too many tomatoes are setting. Any ideas? it has been a 100 degrees (37C) almost every day. I water every day with drip about 1 1/2 gallons per plant thank you
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13 Aug 21, Martha (USA - Zone 9b climate)
Hi Lonnie, Tomatoes really don't set fruit above 85 degrees or so. If you keep it going though it should start to produce for you this fall.
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Showing 71 - 80 of 798 comments
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Your Blossom end rot could be caused by the small pot. Try a 30L minimum for a tomato of up to 1m, and 50L+ tubs for anything taller. The problem in Northern NZ (Auckland upwards) in the intense heat, humidity, and constant winds on clear days that dry the soil. The soil seesaws from dry to wet, with us trying to compensate the loss three times a day, in small pots. You'll get excellent plants, but blossom end rot, and no useful fruit. I buy seeds from Southern suppliers who have clearly defined seasons in their districts. Here in West Auckland, the sun mid-spring onward is almost too strong for tomatoes (as noted in the comment from The Shore above), and the humidity is oppressive. They are part shade plants here, and 30L is absolute minimum for varieties that suppliers claim can be grown in 18L, or less. This year I'm using no less than 54L each plant, plus grass clipping mulch. So far so good. It's the only way to maintain soil a consistent moisture.

- Lee

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This planting guide is a general reference intended for home gardeners. We recommend that you take into account your local conditions in making planting decisions. GardenGrow is not a farming or commercial advisory service. For specific advice, please contact your local plant suppliers, gardening groups, or agricultural department. The information on this site is presented in good faith, but we take no responsibility as to the accuracy of the information provided.
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