Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
P                 P P P

(Best months for growing Potato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 50°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 12 - 16 inches apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

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07 Nov 09, Aaron (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi Ryan, A quick Google search returned this: Potatoes are ready for harvesting when the majority of the tops have withered. Early potatoes may be dug for table use at any time but for storage the potatoes should be fully mature. And Adrienne, Seed potatoes should be kept in a bright, warm position when trying to get them to shoot. Keeping potatoes cool and dark will keep them from shooting.
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27 Oct 09, nial (New Zealand - cool/mountain climate)
hiw long does it take a potato to grow
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09 Jan 17, Stephanie Easthope (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
HI Nial It depends on the variety. You can get 'early' or 'main' crops. Early varieties take about 90 days from planting to harvest, although I find I can get a good crop in just 60 days, but I am in Auckland so the temp may help. Main crops can be 120-190 days depending on the variety. If you do a google search on seed potato varieties, there are some nz websites that have tables showing the different types and how long they take to grow. Steph
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17 Jan 17, Sharron (New Zealand - sub-tropical climate)
Hi. Do you ever grow 'early' potatoes late? ie just use them whenever you would like a quick crop of potatoes? And what is your favourite for flavour? I'm growing Arran Banner now. I just got a community garden plot in December and I found a bag for peanuts. They are doing well, planted mid December, but they are forming flowers already. Cheers
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22 Oct 09, Ryan (Australia - cool/mountain climate)
Hi guys, i am giving potatoes a shot for the first time, but have no idea how to tell when to harvest! any advice would be great, thanks! (sorry if this has already been asked)
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09 Sep 09, Jane (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi Lisa, yes the actual potato is green if it has been subject to light so you should keep the plants well mulched in case the potatoes are close to the surface, my spuds are still showing no signs of shooting, they are in the potting shed in egg cartons, will they shoot soon? Or shall I just plant them now? They are certified seed spuds.
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02 Sep 09, lisa (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
i have planted potatoes about 3-4 weeks ago (i didnt bury them as i have very hard soil here) and have been covering them over as they shoot. how long do you have to do this as i keep getting told from people there should be no need to cover them over as they grow. also the poisonous thing is a bit scary - how do you know if the potato is green? is the actual potato that you dig up a green colour?? thanks, L
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27 Jun 10, kathy (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi,Lisa,don't wworry,you will see definite pale or darker green in your potatoes.Light or dark,you would'nt miss it. Good luck. kathy
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02 Sep 09, Adrienne (Australia - temperate climate)
I am so confused about how to sprout seed potatoes. My local nursery says keep them in the cool and dark but a reputable gardening writer spent a page saying keep them in the warmth and light. My Ruby Lou's have only about 1/2cm of growth after almost 2 months. Please help!!!
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22 Aug 09, jenny (Australia - temperate climate)
I notice people have already planted potato tubers? Am I too late?
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I heard that the potato will stop sending nutrients to the tubers if the stalks are bent. One of the most successful potato harvests I have ever seen was a large container grown project where he used several layers (think of a layer cake) of horizontal plastic fencing and t-posts at each corner to hold the horizontal fencing to keep the stalks from bending at all and support them as they grew. They were able to get an absolutely massive yield with that method although he was sick all summer and didn't care for them or water them at all. I am not sure that the container growing was as pivotal in the results as just keeping the stalks from bending over. I have container grown before and will try it again this spring as well as ground growing using his methods to keep the stalks upright. I think another often overlooked issue is either too much or too little phosphorus and potash in 10-10-10 fertilizer. I think 'balanced' fertilizers can present real problems for root crops since they don't need or want balanced inputs. You will always have too much of something and too little of the other. Also there is a time delay on phosphorus while it stays in the upper part of the soil, so you can apply phosphorus to increase tuber formation, but it takes 3 months to disperse into the soil, while nitrogen sinks like a stone through soil an becomes almost immediately bio-unavailable (or runs off into the environment via water). So if you are using 10-10-10 you are going to end up poisoning your plants in order to get one or another nutrients available in the correct quantity. Plus factor in the time delay to bioavailability. I think it is better to thoroughly prepare soil before you put your garden to bed in the winter than prepare it in the spring (actually I have revived some fruit trees that were very old and no longer producing by fall fertilizing; I got almost $700 worth of organic pears and even more than this in apples last year through fall fertilizing). I also heard (and studied it last year in my own garden) that potatoes grow between the seed potato and the surface. If you bury them deep you will increase yields as there is more space for them to grow above the seed potato. But if you plant them shallow, they have a very narrow area to make potatoes in, significantly reducing production. This means in container gardening you need to put them at the very bottom of a 1'-6" (0.45 meters) tall container to get a full yield. I tried this method last year and doubled my production. I was putting them very close to the surface before last year. Also, potatoes need cool roots and won't produce anything at all if their roots are too hot in the container during the summer. Afternoon/evening shade is a must in Southern US zones or other hot environments. Or you could insulate or shade the container.

- Christian

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