Growing Potato

Solanum tuberosum : Solanaceae / the nightshade family

Jan F M A M J J A S O N Dec
P                 P P P

(Best months for growing Potato in New Zealand - cool/mountain regions)

  • P = Plant seed potatoes
  • Plant tuber. Best planted at soil temperatures between 50°F and 86°F. (Show °C/cm)
  • Space plants: 12 - 16 inches apart
  • Harvest in 15-20 weeks. Dig carefully, avoid damaging the potatoes.
  • Compatible with (can grow beside): Peas, Beans, Brassicas, Sweetcorn, Broad Beans, Nasturtiums, Marigolds
  • Avoid growing close to: Cucumber, Pumpkin, Sunflowers, Tomatoes, Rosemary

Your comments and tips

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10 Oct 17, Filly (Australia - temperate climate)
Hi, I live in an apartment with a west facing balcony and about to experiment with my "potting Garden" Wish me luck lol. Was just wondering if potatoes would have any problem on my balcony since it is west facing?
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11 Oct 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
You will probably struggle growing much if your plants are only going to have sun for half or less of the day. Good luck with it.
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02 Nov 17, Filly (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks for your reply Mike. ! I'm gonna try anyway :) Can't keep this woman down lol.
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10 Oct 17, Darren (Australia - temperate climate)
Do your research on how best to grow potatoes in pots. West facing will probably mean more water for all of your pots, as they will get the hotter afternoon sun. Mulch well.
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02 Nov 17, Filly (Australia - temperate climate)
Thanks for your comment Darren. Yep, I have read that info on my potato quest haha! We'll see how my spuds turn out. Maybe I will receive a medal haha! I am not easily defeated :) Not that I am big on spuds, just trying out something "not so new" in a different environment.
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02 Oct 17, ANTHONY (Australia - temperate climate)
Hello i have heard that when growing potatoes , we need to trim the plant matter that grows above the ground in order to get a better yield . Is this true
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03 Oct 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
Doesn't sound right to me. Potato is related to tomato - as the plant grows the potatoes develop up the stem. Best to hill the soil up as it grows but don't cover all the leaves. The leaves are the energy source to grow the potatoes.
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01 Oct 17, Denise (Australia - temperate climate)
I would like to grow potatoes from store bought sprouting potatoes in a foam tomato box Can you tell me if potting mix is ok to use alone Do i cut potatoes and which way up do I plant them Thanks
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02 Oct 17, Mike (Australia - sub-tropical climate)
If I understand what you mean by tomato box, you may need something deeper than this. If potatoes are large cut in half and leave in the sun for a couple of days to dry the cut section. Then plant with the flat part down. The shoots will come out the top part.
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29 Sep 17, Heather (Australia - temperate climate)
I'm growing just a few purple potatoes in a cage following the instructions above. I've never grown potatoes before at all so need some help please. When they sprouted the little plants are not what I imagined. I thought it would be a tallish, narrow shoot but it is a little clump of leaves about 10 cm round (the clump, not each leaf). Do I just bury this whole thing in the next layer of mulch etc? I can't imagine how it will grow through. Perhaps I should have watched more closely and mounded up before the leaves opened, but I didn't notice until they were like this (the leaves are almost the same colour as the compost mix). So, is it OK to bury them now, or should I have done it sooner? I only planted four bits and the first two are as described but the other two are just coming up now, so not too late for those perhaps but they are all together.
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I heard that the potato will stop sending nutrients to the tubers if the stalks are bent. One of the most successful potato harvests I have ever seen was a large container grown project where he used several layers (think of a layer cake) of horizontal plastic fencing and t-posts at each corner to hold the horizontal fencing to keep the stalks from bending at all and support them as they grew. They were able to get an absolutely massive yield with that method although he was sick all summer and didn't care for them or water them at all. I am not sure that the container growing was as pivotal in the results as just keeping the stalks from bending over. I have container grown before and will try it again this spring as well as ground growing using his methods to keep the stalks upright. I think another often overlooked issue is either too much or too little phosphorus and potash in 10-10-10 fertilizer. I think 'balanced' fertilizers can present real problems for root crops since they don't need or want balanced inputs. You will always have too much of something and too little of the other. Also there is a time delay on phosphorus while it stays in the upper part of the soil, so you can apply phosphorus to increase tuber formation, but it takes 3 months to disperse into the soil, while nitrogen sinks like a stone through soil an becomes almost immediately bio-unavailable (or runs off into the environment via water). So if you are using 10-10-10 you are going to end up poisoning your plants in order to get one or another nutrients available in the correct quantity. Plus factor in the time delay to bioavailability. I think it is better to thoroughly prepare soil before you put your garden to bed in the winter than prepare it in the spring (actually I have revived some fruit trees that were very old and no longer producing by fall fertilizing; I got almost $700 worth of organic pears and even more than this in apples last year through fall fertilizing). I also heard (and studied it last year in my own garden) that potatoes grow between the seed potato and the surface. If you bury them deep you will increase yields as there is more space for them to grow above the seed potato. But if you plant them shallow, they have a very narrow area to make potatoes in, significantly reducing production. This means in container gardening you need to put them at the very bottom of a 1'-6" (0.45 meters) tall container to get a full yield. I tried this method last year and doubled my production. I was putting them very close to the surface before last year. Also, potatoes need cool roots and won't produce anything at all if their roots are too hot in the container during the summer. Afternoon/evening shade is a must in Southern US zones or other hot environments. Or you could insulate or shade the container.

- Christian

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